Jump to content
SAU Community

Trying To Fit My Dream Wheels - Te37

newbatplay
 Share

Recommended Posts

newbatplay Enthusiast

newbatplay

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

So I have purchased my dream wheels for my S2 R33 GTST recently and although it looks great and all, it isn't really fun to drive in mainly because the tyres hit against the guards when going over big speed bumps. The problem becomes worst when I have a passenger in the rear (let alone a full car load).

My wheels are 17 x 9 +22 (I'm running 255/40 tyres at the front and 245/45 at the rear). The car has been lowered on cusco coilovers and the damper settings is currently on 4 out of the max 5. I do not want to invest in a camber kit/bushes (maybe in the future when I have more funds) so I am looking for a cheaper solution. I do not want to run stretched tyres.

I initially thought my guards were rolled but have since been told otherwise. Can someone please tell me if my guards has been rolled or not by referring to the pics below?

If they have been rolled - Will flaring of the guards solve the problem and how much flaring will I need

If they are not rolled - Will rolling the guards solve the problem or do I still need to get them flared abit

Any other solutions I havn't thought of?

Thanks for your help guys!!!

2012-06-05201833.jpg2012-06-05201712.jpgte37s.jpgte37-3.jpg

Edited by newbatplay
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401848-trying-to-fit-my-dream-wheels-te37/
Share on other sites
newbatplay Enthusiast

newbatplay

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks Aaron

The two picture of the guards was at the front. The rears are exactly the same. I thought unrolled guards sit L shape whereas mine appear to be pressed together?

So the plastic inner guards are just the black plastic thing held by that bolt? Will water/dirt likely to cause me more problems?

I'm located in Sydney.

plasticinnerguard.jpg

Edited by newbatplay
Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

yeh dirt kind of gets into annoying places only really gets in front of the door jam.. just hard to clean.. you can try trimming perhaps.. if you in melbourne i can re roll them or flare it if you need..

the fronts have the tabs still straight. they arent rolled.

newbatplay Enthusiast

newbatplay

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

wow thanks for your kind offer! =)

When you say the tabs are still straight, do you mean like an 'L' shape? Because mine are more like a V if you get what I mean.....

Edited by newbatplay
75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

why do you have 255 on the front and 245 on the rear???

245 on front and 255 on rear will have less clearance issues surely?

are they 17x9 +22 all front and rear, cause it looks like a good offset and size to have on a gtst..

I know 17x9 +38 dont fit on the front comfortably with 255 tyres

newbatplay Enthusiast

newbatplay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I initally had 255 at the rear and 245 at the front but the front tyres would hit the guards going over smallish bumps so I switched them around. Most probably due to the height (245/45 has a wall height of 110mm compared to 255/40 with a wall height of 102mm).

They are 17x9+22 all around and IMO they are the perfect specs for a R33 GTST if you can get them to fit.

I bought the wheels with the tyres. 235/40/17 or a slightly stretched 225/45/17 wouldve been perfect

newbatplay Enthusiast

newbatplay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

why do you have 255 on the front and 245 on the rear???

245 on front and 255 on rear will have less clearance issues surely?

are they 17x9 +22 all front and rear, cause it looks like a good offset and size to have on a gtst..

I know 17x9 +38 dont fit on the front comfortably with 255 tyres

17x9+38 compared to 17x9+22 would retract the wheel from the outer edge by 16mm. When you say they don't fit, is it because it will hit the inner strut?

newbatplay Enthusiast

newbatplay

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It looks like my guards have been rolled but wasn't rolled properly. This thread <http://www.ozmpsclub...-all-equal.html> indicates that there are 2 types of guard rolls. Flatten the lip entirely vs. conventional roll.

It may be the case that I need a complete wheel arch (flattening the lip) roll to stop the scrapping as described in the link.

Edited by newbatplay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...