Jump to content
SAU Community

Ltb R33 Turbo (New To Forum) Looking For Advice On Car I Have Found

Spooger
 Share

Recommended Posts

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

New to the forum and I apologies if I have posted in the wrong section. This forum is quite large. I hope to get my feet here and chat with some great people.

As my first post I feel rude for asking, however I am about to buy my first skyline R33 GTS-T I'm a complete noob with cars. Been into super sport bikes mostly. Wouldgreatly appreciate any advice/assistance on the car I'm buying. Here is the link to the car sales ad. Thanks heaps in advance for any advice or knowledge on this.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1996-12761797?postcode=3844&Range=Price:Min,Max~1&eapi=2&silo=Stock&base=1216&cr=0&sort=default&__N=4294739749%204294950381%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294963846%204294963593%201216&vertical=Car&distance=25

Pattey21 Proficient

Pattey21

Posted
Posted

It depends how "handy" you are with cars. The more modified it is the more you may need to change to get passed roadworty. Also with that sort of power things will start breakig unless the power has been supported properly. If you are new to modifying/mechanics side of cars and you like this one because it has a lot of power and cheap. Thats properly not a wise decision

APE Enthusiast

APE

Posted
Posted

seems cheap - you get what you pay for... my advice would be to buy the cleanest r33 u can find even if it costs 8-9k if its immaculate and seller is genuine you will have no problems

Ruxis Veteran

Ruxis

Posted
Posted

I'm with Patrick, 310 kw is just about the limit of a r33 gtst. You'll be driving a car over 10 years old at max capacity and when something blows (not if) your going to have to pay alot. I mean, you blow a clutch it's 1000-1500 bucks (including labour). Blow an engine or gearbox an youll be paying alot more then 5k on this car hah.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Yeetus
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • GTSBoy
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...