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Tarzan's G-Sensor

nick_7g
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  • 4 weeks later...
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JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

Quick question regarding mounting the digital sensors...

Do they need to be mounted in the exact centre of the car - or at least in the exact same spot as the original sensor?

Also curious about this.

anyone else had experiences with these units?

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

You will have to do some research for current info

I understand both brands do a standard and a higher tweaked unit. (they are likely the same unit/technology if you see pictures of both side by side, maybe a different colour casing)

Also look at the capabilities of the ETS Pro? before rushing out and buying a unit.

Ares180BPM Explorer

Ares180BPM

Posted
Posted

Yep I'd hold off.

I bought the Midori one and - though it's been back to Midori for testing - found it to at least be reporting a fake signal to my V-Spec's digital G display.

Nissan G-Sensor:
http://youtu.be/Ct5od-3hSXA

Midori Spec Digital G Sensor
http://youtu.be/RHpTvkDVq8s

Although they aren't driven the same route - you can see that with the Midori unit in place the G display is shunted to the left whenever the vehicle is in motion.

I'd love some advice on this issue if anyone has any!

  • 1 month later...
R32 Combat Rookie

R32 Combat

Posted
Posted

What you see is how they work. I make the Skylab Fusion digital torque split controllers in the UK.

All these units so is tweek the voltage coming out of the G Sensor. Well, thats a simplified version.

What you see on the screen related directly to the voltage output from the G sensor. When the dot is in the middle, the G sensor is outputting 2.5 volts. 1.2G is 0.5 or 4.5v depending on direction. The usual ratio is linear. What my controller does , and all the others is alter the relationship between actual G and what the ATTESA sees.

This is why you cannot use them accurately with the R34 Display.

R32 Combat Rookie

R32 Combat

Posted
Posted

Just doing a price round up as I previously mentioned my attessa unit is busted and I need a new one:

Tarzan G Box - $ 648.65 - http://www.nengun.com/do-luck/tarzan-g-box

Midori Digital - $ 560.48 - http://www.nengun.com/midori-seibi/midori-spec-digital-g-sensor

ETS Pro - $599 - http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-awd-skyline/ets-pro-center-diff-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gt-r-1.html

Am I missing any? Haven't found any more info on Ruzic's G Sensor replacement. Is there any difference between these three?

These are all 100% OEM replacements?

Skylab Fusion $420

[url=http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/175702-skylab-fusion-e-ts-controller.html[/url]

Ares180BPM Explorer

Ares180BPM

Posted
Posted

What you see is how they work. I make the Skylab Fusion digital torque split controllers in the UK.

All these units so is tweek the voltage coming out of the G Sensor. Well, thats a simplified version.

What you see on the screen related directly to the voltage output from the G sensor. When the dot is in the middle, the G sensor is outputting 2.5 volts. 1.2G is 0.5 or 4.5v depending on direction. The usual ratio is linear. What my controller does , and all the others is alter the relationship between actual G and what the ATTESA sees.

This is why you cannot use them accurately with the R34 Display.

Firstly - THANK YOU.

You've been the only person (including Midori Seibi) whose been able to answer my question!

So, to confirm, the jump to the left is purely a miscommunication between the G-Sensor and the MFD, caused by an increase in voltage by the Digital Sensor and not a fault.

If that's the case you've made this old man very happy and very relieved!

THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!

R32 Combat Rookie

R32 Combat

Posted
Posted

Firstly - THANK YOU.

You've been the only person (including Midori Seibi) whose been able to answer my question!

So, to confirm, the jump to the left is purely a miscommunication between the G-Sensor and the MFD, caused by an increase in voltage by the Digital Sensor and not a fault.

If that's the case you've made this old man very happy and very relieved!

THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!

Yes, there is no error, its just the way it works. What you have experienced with Midori Seibi is an unwillingness to be co-operate with the seller. They know exactly what their controllers do and what their short comings are. All controllers that work this way will have this effect. What you can do it leave the original G-Sensor wired just to the MFD. That way the G you see is accurate and the controller can still work.

  • 1 year later...
JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

A quick update to this thread, I ended up getting a Do-Luck DTMII and blew it up trying to wire in the throttle cable :cheers:

Now I'm the market again for a g sensor. Is there any new products on the market? The Skylab looks interesting, anyone got one?

Is it PnP?

  • 2 weeks later...
Ares180BPM Explorer

Ares180BPM

Posted
Posted

Er huh?

Don't get it? I replaced my one with the Tarzan G-Sensor and the display is now working A-OK
No extra wiring needed...

Yes, there is no error, its just the way it works. What you have experienced with Midori Seibi is an unwillingness to be co-operate with the seller. They know exactly what their controllers do and what their short comings are. All controllers that work this way will have this effect. What you can do it leave the original G-Sensor wired just to the MFD. That way the G you see is accurate and the controller can still work.

Maybe it's an update but the new unit I have works fine with the display.

Chris32R Proficient

Chris32R

Posted
Posted

Out of interest, how did you wire it for it to fry itself?

A quick update to this thread, I ended up getting a Do-Luck DTMII and blew it up trying to wire in the throttle cable :cheers:

Now I'm the market again for a g sensor. Is there any new products on the market? The Skylab looks interesting, anyone got one?

Is it PnP?

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