Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone else had a look at this? I'd never heard of it till I read about it in the latest EVO magazine.

http://www.simraceway.com/

It's a free download simulator, based on online racing (although you can also practice and race offline).

There are several tracks and cars available, but the standard download only gives you access to one car - an Evo X. All other cars have to be purchased. pricing ranges between $0.25 and anout $15 per car. Basically you pay 1/100,000th of the real value of the car - so something that costs $100k in real life costs you $1 in the game.

I just downloaded last night and have been driving the Evo around Infineon raceway. I must say that the physics feel pretty good - the Evo on road tyres slides around a bit, but you can chuck it prety well, and it gives lots of feedback, unlike the canned spins / tank slappers / crashes that a lot of games seem to throw at you.

I still need to tweak the steering wheel settings (sensitivity, dead zone etc) as it feels very dead in a straight line, then loads up artificially in corners.

Still, for a free game it's pretty bloody good. I haven't looked into the online stuff yet, but apparently they are trying to build a big community, with prizes for winning events (including real track days etc)

Check it out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402012-simraceway-anyone-else-play-it/
Share on other sites

Anyone else had a look at this? I'd never heard of it till I read about it in the latest EVO magazine.

http://www.simraceway.com/

It's a free download simulator, based on online racing (although you can also practice and race offline).

There are several tracks and cars available, but the standard download only gives you access to one car - an Evo X. All other cars have to be purchased. pricing ranges between $0.25 and anout $15 per car. Basically you pay 1/100,000th of the real value of the car - so something that costs $100k in real life costs you $1 in the game.

I just downloaded last night and have been driving the Evo around Infineon raceway. I must say that the physics feel pretty good - the Evo on road tyres slides around a bit, but you can chuck it prety well, and it gives lots of feedback, unlike the canned spins / tank slappers / crashes that a lot of games seem to throw at you.

I still need to tweak the steering wheel settings (sensitivity, dead zone etc) as it feels very dead in a straight line, then loads up artificially in corners.

Still, for a free game it's pretty bloody good. I haven't looked into the online stuff yet, but apparently they are trying to build a big community, with prizes for winning events (including real track days etc)

Check it out

nice ive always wanted a download simulator

JK will download and play after BF3 session

So far I have to say I'm not impressed.

Live for Speed is much better, although it's not free. It's worth the $20, especially if you have a steering wheel already.

Yeh maybe it is - I haven't played it since the early versions - perhaps they've sorted the physic and made it feel realistic.

Interested though - what is it about LFS and Simraceway that makes LFS (or others) better? Just saying "X is better than Y" doesn't help much. I know people who still claim that GT5 is the best driving sim ever greated (or Forza, for those that way inclined). I guess everyone has their own criteria upon which games are judged.

From the hour or so I spent tweaking and playing Simraceway, I found the physics to be quite intuitive, though some aspects of the game did need improvement (see my first post). You can push the car and actually get some feedback on when you're pushing too hard, a bit like you do in real life. This is something that's lacking in a lot of games out there - even some of the so called "hard core" simulators. Has anyone actually tried it with different cars / configurations? I guess an EVO X is hardly the best car to test a game's physics capability, given that driving an EVO is a bit like driving a computer game anyway (with all of the artificial assists turned on).

I get that the graphics aren't the best out there. Still, I'd rather play the original 1998 version of GPl, complete with 1998 graphics than grapple with the awful physics which afflict all of the console based driving games I've tried.

Edited by warps

So is this any good or not? I downloaded it last night, installed thismorning, made a login during today... havn't played it as yet and might not get a chance tonight with the state of origin to watch.

I have played LFS for a few years now - one of of a handful of games prior to my PS3 that I had actually paid for.

They have been promising this new tyre modelling for far too long... as with everything it fades to me forgetting it exists for 6 months at a time.

Either way - LFS is pretty sweet, better back in the day with lfsTweak... with the custom cylinders, engine configurations, tyre sizes etc. etc. - made some wicked powerful drift mobiles... and smoke mod was fun to reduce my old shitty computers framerate to a standstill :)

I reckon the graphics of SimRW are slightly better but i reckon LFS has a superior engine.

I also like that you can jump in and start racing straight away and race people and AI.

I don't have a steering wheel but I reckon LFS would be absolutely shit hot with one. I've seen some of the stuff guys with them do and it's awesome. Genuine drifting on PC.

was totally shyte with a keyboard - I couldn't even get out of the pits without writing the car off. When I plugged in the wheel it made a huge difference. At least give that a go before writing the game off.

How anyone can possible play a driving game with a keyboard is beyond me.

Still, for the money it's not a bad game. Maybe after they develop it for a few years it'll evolve into something decent. Most of these community online games started out pretty basic and either evolved or crashed and burned.

Not that I can see. However, you can apparently win money in some of the events, so I guess you can use that towards buying new cars (don't know whether you need to buy the cars for the events first, or you can enter an event and drive whatever car is available). Some of the events are a bit of an "every child wins a trophy" event, so might be easy to get cash that way.

I haven't had a chance to get back to it since trying it out the first time, so don't really know the answers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...