Jump to content
SAU Community

Who's using HKS EVC Boost Controller

meshmesh
 Share

Recommended Posts

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted

We've just fitted the EVC 4, and have a few problems....

1. If I set the High Boost to say 1.1bar, the boost reading goes upto 1.2-1.3, but on the dyno the boost is holding spot on.

2. Had a mate look at the instructions, and he thinks the LOW boost setting is when the controller starts to open the wastegate for spooling & the HIGH boost setting is the limit of boost. I thought he was crazy, because as I understand it, the LOW boost is for lazy driving & the HIGH boost is for everyday driving. But after some testing, I think he is correct, maybe someone can test it themselves? When I set my LOW Boost to eg: .5 and HIGH to 1.1 the boost comes on smooth and early, if I set my LOW boost equal to my HIGH boost, the boost is much more agressive and comes on later.

I'm running HKS Silver Actuators which I believe are .9 ~ 1bar, If I'm setting my EBC LOW Setting below this figure, is it useless having these actuators?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40217-whos-using-hks-evc-boost-controller/
Share on other sites
KamikazeR33 Grand Master

KamikazeR33

Posted
Posted

from the experience i have with mine

i used to have my low boost set at .5 bar and high of .75 bar and it seemed correct according to the boost guage

thats how it worked for me so thats my understanding of it

Emre Proficient

Emre

Posted
Posted

Your mate is incorrect.

EVC has two boost settings, hi and low. Their adjustments do not have any effect on how the boost comes on and judging it by the seat of the pants can be misleading.

If you have 1 bar actuators, you can't set the low boost below that. Simply, the boost controller can not hold boost at 0.5 bar, if your wastegates don't open tilll 1 bar.

So, set your low boost at minimum 1 bar and high boost to whatever the car has been tuned to on pump fuel. If it isn't holding boost correctly it can be fined tuned with the offset feature. FWIW, mine is set at 1.40 bar and never gets touched, would you set your rev-limiter at 6000 rpm...?

The best way to monitor your boost levels is on the dyno, as the peak hold values shown on the hand controller doesn't mean much. Saying that it's common for an EBC to behave differently on the road compared to the dyno, if a high ramp rate have been used.

  • 1 month later...
meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just thought I update this thread...

My problem is all fixed now.. turned out the evc needed a RESET & LEARNING MODE run. I basiclly followed the instructions as detailed in the EVC setup manual. The boost now holds/reads perfectly, and the OFFSET mode setting is spot on 100 where it should be.

After the RESET & LEARNING MODE runs, I also turned off the AUTO ADJUST setting as specified in the manual which it recommends to do, simply by: Turn the Ignition to ON, holding the MOD button, flick the SW-PO switch > wait for the beep (still holding te MOD button) then return it SW-PO to it's original position and you should hear another beep.

So if anyone is having issue with boost readings going over the set boost levels, and you cannot adjust your OFFSET any more (eg: 50 or 150 - like me) just do the above or refer to the manual.

tang0 Proficient

tang0

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have an evc 4 pdf manual ???? or know where to get one ...

i have an evc 4 sitting in a box, waiting to be fitted as soon as I move into my new abode, and get to unpack all the boxes ..

and i'll be buggered if I can remember how to install it. had it in my mr2 turbo first, then pulsar gti-r, now the skyline ... rar

also ,i have not taken delivery of the car yet ...

i managed to get a grade 3.5 gtst s2, in solid red ... a rare colour as far as I can tell ...

anyway, if anyone does have a manual, can you forward it to :

barry@host32.com

Thanks very much ...

rb25 Grand Master

rb25

Posted
Posted

When you first install the evc you have to let it learn your actuator. go for a drive, put it in 3rd and from 2000rpm floor it to redline. Then tune it from there. I have the ricey EVC5 and its a really good controller imho.

-rb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hexi
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Hexi · Posted

      Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • Duncan
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Duncan · Posted

      If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • tidi0x
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By tidi0x · Posted

      Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...