Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling complete big brake set up as fitted to R34 GTR under factory 18 inch rims

Included are the following:

Front disc 371 x 36 AP racing (measuring 35mm) x 2

Front 8 pot caliper with Ferodo 3000 pads (avge 7mm) x 2

Rear disc 330 x 28 AP racing (measuring 27mm) x 2

Rear 4 pot caliper with EBC blue pads (measuring over 10mm) x 2

Pedal box set up Tilton twin cylinder with all ancillaries.

Asking $3000 complete, prefer to sell complete, offers welcome

Located outer east Melbourne, but willing to post.

post-28624-0-55501100-1339309028_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-95000400-1339309065_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-19659900-1339309113_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-64451400-1339309147_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-18669300-1339309189_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-52197600-1339309228_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-81335100-1339309264_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-62152100-1339309298_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-02085400-1339309331_thumb.jpg

post-28624-0-73063400-1339309366_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402197-race-brakes-off-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

Are the callipers AP racing as well just with engravings? I didn't think White Hot actually made their own brake callipers.

How long were they on the car?

How much punishment have they received?

Do they come with all mounting brackets and lines etc?

How did they perform?

Are the callipers AP racing as well just with engravings? I didn't think White Hot actually made their own brake callipers.

Don't think so, do AP do an 8 pot caliper? I've got a feeling these were billet manufactured.

How long were they on the car?

Calipers for around 8 years, front discs near new, rears 2 years old

How much punishment have they received?

With me, minimal, cannot vouch for previous owner.

Do they come with all mounting brackets and lines etc?

Front dog bones included with hard lines, rear flexible lines

How did they perform?

V. Good

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...