Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a 1996 R33 GTST Automatic which im wrecking. Car had 147,000km showing on the odometer. All parts are in good working condition unless otherwise stated.

RB25DET Complete engine including all ancillaries. Was running fine before the car was involved in an accident. Only modifications were a 3" turbo back exhaust and pod filter. Was running through an automatic transmission. $1350

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020474.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020475.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020476.jpg

Automatic transmission with torque converter and flex plate. Perfect working condition. - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020473.jpg

Engine wiring loom and computer - $220

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020456.jpg

Rear subframe with diif / axels / Hubs / Hicas / Suspension - $250

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020485.jpg

Boot lid with series 2 spoiler - $120

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020465.jpg

Standard wheels. 2 tyres are in as new condition, 2 tyres are it the wear indicators - $200

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020467.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020466.jpg

3" Catback exhaust. Has small hole where pipe meets muffle at the end, easily repaired - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020483.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020484.jpg

Factory plastic side skirts. Have some scratches on the underneath of the passenger side and a crack at the end of the drivers side - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020468.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020470.jpg

Left and right rear tail lights - $30 each

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020461.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020460.jpg

Rear bar. Paint has peeled off on corner of passenger side - $80

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020452.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020453.jpg

Drivers side headlight. Plastic lens has a little fatigue but works perfect. - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020451.jpg

Series 2 interior dash surround - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020444.jpg

Series 2 steering wheel. Airbag center removed. - $60

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020440.jpg

Factory side mount intercooler and piping. Everything included. - $80

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020438.jpg

Front and rear stock suspension struts - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020436.jpg

Power steering rack - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020434.jpg

BM44 Brake master cylinder with booster - $80

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020432.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020433.jpg

Drivers side power window switches and surround - $120

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020430.jpg

Climate control unit - $40

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020428.jpg

Passenger seat - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020426.jpg

Rear seats - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020425.jpg

Drivers door. Has small area where paint has bubbled. Doesn't include lock or door card - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020421.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020423.jpg

Passenger door. Doesn't include lock, door card or mirror - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020419.jpg

Series 2 interior door cards and back sides - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020417.jpg

Drivers side front fender - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020416.jpg

Passengers side front fender - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020413.jpg

Front brakes. Good working condition, pads and disks are about 50% worn. - $250

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020407.jpg

Rear brakes. Good working condition, pads are low and disks may need machining before use - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020406.jpg

Complete lock set. Ignition, doors and boot locks with original skyline key - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020403.jpg

Passenger window switch - $30

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020010.jpg

Space saver spare wheel - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020006.jpg

Front hubs. 5 stud. $60

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010949.jpg

Castor rods with urethane bushes - $30 each

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010934.jpg

Radiator. Aftermarket of somesort. In as new condition. - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010937.jpg

Aircon condensor. As new condition.- $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010935.jpg

Airbag dashpad. - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010930.jpg

Automatic selector - $40

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020458.jpg

Pioneer headunit and 4 channel amp - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020454.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020471.jpg

Factory jack to fit in boot. - $40

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020462.jpg

Lower control arms / LCA's. - $80 each

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020482.jpg

Parts available for pick-up in Emerald anytime or at Chadstone during weekdays. Will post suitable items at buyers expense. Contact me here in this thread or PM if interested in any part or want more information.

hey mate, bit confused, your car was auto but the rad is for a manual? how did the gear box lines connect to it? i thought it was my lucky day then! anyway let me know and i might be interested! cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...