Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I started a long reply.... Then thought "why bother".... Benji, your killing me man.... Your probation is ok cus your not trolling BUT you are posting epic novels which are epic fail, and posting in ANY thread with the same stuff....

My advice, start a build thread.... Contain all your mods and plans in there (like others have suggested), keep the posts basic and read and learn, keep enjoying SAU... Oh and stop hitting on 14yo at Supre :laugh:

Yeah dude, I always end up rambling when I am on uni holidays. Will be sure to start a build thread once my first batch of parts come from Japan (^_-)-☆

Also have a set of Kumho Ecsta XS (KU36) tires and a 1.0kg dry powder extinguisher waiting to be fitted. Stripped out the carpet in the rear of the S15 in order to counteract the 1.0kg weight gain of the fire extinguisher which will be mounted near the centre console (^^♪

I didn't manage to get the two pieces of carpet from the rear quarter panels as there was a big clip on each one which I couldn't manage to get off. Also took out the spare tire.

Your a dumb ass :P don't take the carpet out of a street car ya clown!! If you want weight reduction you'd have to go drastic, BUT it's a fkn street car.... Carpet and seats make it quiet!!

lose 1 kg of weight if your that concerned, or get a skyline for the extra torque haha

Skylines are cool but cost wayyy too much to maintain for me to be able to afford. Whilst they have more torque, also less fuel efficient!!

Your a dumb ass :P don't take the carpet out of a street car ya clown!! If you want weight reduction you'd have to go drastic, BUT it's a fkn street car.... Carpet and seats make it quiet!!

The carpet was taken out of the boot in the rear so pretty stealthy and completely legal modification! Was tempted to take out the rear seat though but once I saw 2 bolts clamping the rear seat that idea quickly went out the window (^^♪

Thinking I'm happy with the weight reduction. Anyway, just realised I'm rambling again. Back on topic =)!

whats to maintain? i do the oil every 5000kms thats it. same as yours.

and i doubt an s15 would be much better then a gtt, gtts are pretty good on fuel.

haha rear seats weigh like 1kg as well, you will not notice this. are you gunna take a shit every time you wanna drive fast? this is the difference your making.

whats to maintain? i do the oil every 5000kms thats it. same as yours.

and i doubt an s15 would be much better then a gtt, gtts are pretty good on fuel.

haha rear seats weigh like 1kg as well, you will not notice this. are you gunna take a shit every time you wanna drive fast? this is the difference your making.

^^^ this....

Oh, and not all GTT's are good on fuel :P

whats to maintain? i do the oil every 5000kms thats it. same as yours.

and i doubt an s15 would be much better then a gtt, gtts are pretty good on fuel.

haha rear seats weigh like 1kg as well, you will not notice this. are you gunna take a shit every time you wanna drive fast? this is the difference your making.

Literally lol'ed IRL at the taking a poo before driving part.

The S15 got around 7.5L/100kms when my dad drove it home from Sydney rather tentatively. The SR20DET combined with the S chassis is the ultimate combination for performance on a budget (^_-)-☆ .

The Toyota Supra would be the ultimate 6 cylinder performance car/budget supercar due to the rear wheel drive powertrain and 3.0 litre race inspired 2JZ which is basically a torque monster.....R32/33/34 GTR are also on par in performance I'd say, albeit way more expensive to maintain due to the higher revving engine (RB26) and all wheel drive powertrain.

really?? thats pretty good actually, thats like what my 1.8L tiida gets and way better then my camry :S

you sure about those figures??

Just checked carsguides to make sure I hadn't calculated it wrong...turns out what I said was about right

http://www.carsguide.com.au/search/specs-search/?&Ns=pRSS_SortDate%7C1&N=4294967154+4294962594++490+4294965960

Anyway, I think if you were to get stuck into it and come on boost frequently then fuel consumption would go wayyyy up.

yeah fair enough, id probs get better economy if i had the 5-7 boost instead of 10psi all the time too haha.

must run like an NA if your gentle, i think the best ive got is 650? maybe 700. and i think its a 65L tank

Commodore drivers :no:

So has Benji gone into hiding yet?

Been a productive day today as I couldn't get the old tiles off the wall in the kitchen without destroying the wall in the process

Decided to cut the gyprock and tiles out completely and put some new sheets up.

Just finished setting it and can sand and undercoat tomorrow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...