Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm running Haltech :-) so +1 here too.

another great ecu to consider is the link/vipec. I was running one before the haltech and was really happy too (They make the speedo wave at you when you start the car too...just awesome.). Only changed to Haltech as the ecu was incorrectly blamed for a problem. the link G4 also allows you to keep the stock ECU case.

JEM LOVE Haltech :D So i got mine fully wired it as the GTT doesnt have a plug in option........ Spensive!!!

i just want my god dam car back...... have not seen it in 3 months let alone herd the soud of the RB and the veilside cannon, so depressing.

Whats the status of it??????

yep -

Optional - unplug and unbolt the ecu

There should be 4 philip head screws in the top of the case - undo them and take the lid off. You should be able to see the circut board

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

You wont need to pull the cables out as the ECU can stay in the car man..... That looks like it says Original Modified on the case in hand writing, which smells like a NISTUNE to me :D

yea fair enough, nice one.

do i need to remove the bracket the ecu is in? or does it pop/unbolt from that?

i do need to unbold the top to open it, so im going to have to remove it from the bracket yea?

The bracket should swing out of the way and you can get to the ECU or swing out out easy enough..... Just undo the screws, take the photo, post it and re-assemble mate :) As long as you dont mess with anything inside itll be sweet! No touchy touchy! (Keep that for J-Rad :P)

I cant remember if it was 2 or 3 bolts - I do remember it was pretty obvious what's holding in. Just undo all 3 and see if it comes loose.

i do remember the case itself should have 4 philips head screws holding the lid on.

As long as your gentle and you leave the harness and the ECU plugged in you cant hurt anything! Unless you go poking around inside the case which you wont :)

i just want my god dam car back...... have not seen it in 3 months let alone herd the soud of the RB and the veilside cannon, so depressing.

I remember thinking the quoted 6 weeks was pretty quick. Better they take there time and do it right though.

Mines been off the road since march if it makes you feel better lol

I remember thinking the quoted 6 weeks was pretty quick. Better they take there time and do it right though.

Mines been off the road since march if it makes you feel better lol

Mine is a daily atm, not going to buy a daily till i do the turbos and ECU and start going for 400KW at all 4, i have been told it should be ready 100% by next week. I have not had a car in close to 3 months and working in sydney and living on the coast sucks the wang when ur 6foot 4 and have to catch a farking train 5-6 days a week.

When u go to look at a GTR IMO u should get like 3-4 ppl to come along who own GTR's just so u look bad ass when u turn up with a convoy of GTR's tell the guy you need to make sure it passes the convoy inspection as its going to join it hahahah.

Edited by T4NK

I remember thinking the quoted 6 weeks was pretty quick. Better they take there time and do it right though.

Mines been off the road since march if it makes you feel better lol

Mine was 2 years if its a comp :woot: lol...........

Tsk Tsk oh Anthony I need to teach you how to work on cars.

The key is have a go, if you remember where the screws go your fine.

Sometimes getting in and having a go = broken shift knob.

Mine was 2 years if its a comp :woot: lol...........

S15 has been off the road for 60 days... and nothing has been done :woot:

and all I want is some BPU's installed

When u go to look at a GTR IMO u should get like 3-4 ppl to come along who own GTR's just so u look bad ass when u turn up with a convoy of GTR's tell the guy you need to make sure it passes the convoy inspection as its going to join it hahahah.

THIS!!!! LMAO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...