Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

THREAD IS UP!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/412474-newcastlecentral-coast-cruise-to-broke-and-back-21212/

FIRST EVENT EVER SO GO EASY!!!

congrats benji! go very easy mate. youve got a lot to learn :D

hahah nar u must just have good taste :woot: im going for the "what are u talking about officer look its all black its stock" look

Yep & exactly! although one look into my engine bay with the big RED R RACING - BUILD NUMBER XX plauque on the coil pack cover will say somethings not quite right lol.

my engine bay is stock :)

Mine too :ph34r:

Officer..........

Oh and Martin, the deadline is due to needing the car in Sydney on both Friday and Saturday and at the moment the paint is stripping itself....

It could be a number of things

1ST thing is - don't keep on testing it.

2nd thing - check all your intake hoses again - particularly the intercooler hoses - you may just have had a hose blow off

If you don't find anything out of the ordinary, i suggest giving DVSJEZ a call to run some diagonsitics.

Def sounds like a intake hose blown off, how much boost did it say and where is your gauge plumbed to?

I have nfi where its plumbed to its stock standard 34 GTR setup, i hoping its just a hose somewhere thats popped off, the car is running around 1 bar i think its boosting to .9kgcm2 on the GTR display, and its registers that its boosting but no power. i can hear the turbos spool and everything just no power

if a hose pops off it will idle fine (i.e. it only needs atmo pressure air to run)

Turbo will spool because its the exhaust that drives them, not the entering air.

do you have an electonic boost controller?

I've circled the location of the stock boost control solinoid thingy. Mine had been replaced by the Greedy EBC controller, so it wont look exactly like pictured.

From memory one of the lines runs back to the MFD. The other should run to somewhere along your intake (can't remember exactly) if you follow this, than your boost leak is most likely after this point...

XXXX.jpg

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Yeh i have had a look at that, my issue is i dont have any tools to be able to take anything apart, my dads tools are scatterd all over the shed and i cant find anything thanks to my brother not putting anything back, i got the hose with the AFM off the air box and called my mechanic, oil in the hose pic is below, car is going to the mechanics tomorrow they have said i can drive it but dont flog it take it easy get it down to them.

post-83784-0-92433800-1351397007_thumb.jpg

Sounds weird, surely you'd not a hose hanging off?

It's not pulling hard but the Turbos are spoiling. Could be not enough fuel going in or anything! Afm could be f**ked in some way and no sense the f**kload of air coming in.

Just thinking you'd see a big hose hanging off?

Anyone know anything about stock fuel rails? more inportantly, can the stock regulator be removed from a stock GTR rail?

I run a GTR rail now in my car, removed the stock Regs and Dampners to do it but have an adjustable Sard in line..... What you trying to do?

Don't want to modify the stock rail to get my larger bore injectors in - so i'm ordering a 11mm billet rail.

Just wanted to know if the stock regulator can be removed so i can reuse it or if i had to get a new one. Been in the middle of butt f*ck know where atm, i can't just go look at the car to find out ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...