Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ruxis,

Its had a hit in the rear end from what I can see...(panel gaps are dodgy/arent factory)....paint seems off in colour on the boot pic and has a lot of orange peal...wouldnt be suprised if whole car has had respray

Best way to tell of rear end damage is look in the boot and check for the factory seam sealer (where the floor pan connects to the beaver panel).

Only way to tell 100% is inspect in person, but it looks dodgy.

As for the chassis code, well its not a GTR chassis code so its most likely been rebirthed.

Most examples of 33 gtr's for sale in Australia atm look pretty tired in my opinion....

Better off getting something nice from Japan and paying a little bit extra (You can fetch an R33 for a good price from Auction, dealer is always a bit more expensive)...

Anyway, there is currently a Grade 4.5 Midnight Purple R33 GTR going through auction in Japan (today)

http://www.j-spec.co...NE-3385259.html

I say you could snap that up for 22k landed and complied....

From a dealership (youll always pay more)

Immaculate Dark Grey R33 GTR for 30k landed and complied

http://www.j-spec.co...ne-6973360.html

Auto Select Tuned R33 GTR with Single Turbo for 32k landed and complied

http://www.j-spec.co...ne-7077060.html

Your looking at photos dude :S

Defo not paying 30k for a f**kin 33 gtr. I've been looking and there's some that look really nice for 20k(keep in mind I don't give a f**k about panels 1mm off that i can see in a photo from 10 metred away etc)

Your looking at photos dude :S

Defo not paying 30k for a f**kin 33 gtr. I've been looking and there's some that look really nice for 20k(keep in mind I don't give a f**k about panels 1mm off that i can see in a photo from 10 metred away etc)

Ahhh okay, yep.

This one may be worth looking at Ruxis, looks pretty tidy

Could bargain with him and shave a few grand off the price...

Plus its Series III

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1997-13675469?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=3&eapi=2&__N=1246+1247+1252+1282+1216&find=r33 gtr|CarAll&silo=Stock&num=15&sort=default

particular part i need to replace on my car:

Ex Nissan Australia - $272.40

Ex Nissan Japan - $112.60

Ex Nissan UAE - $59.52

I do believe we are getting ripped off in Oz. :domokun: :domokun:

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

particular part i need to replace on my car:

Ex Nissan Australia - $272.40

Ex Nissan Japan - $112.60

Ex Nissan UAE - $59.52

I do believe we are getting ripped off in Oz. :domokun: :domokun:

We get ripped off badly in Australia...

Which is why I have gotten most of my parts for my S15 from Japan from the contact I have over there, and saved a lot of money in the process.

Nismo smoked inidicators have been installed.

Also, RDA slotted/dimpled rotors + EBC greenstuff + hardware kits have been installed.

Pictures coming tomorrow.

Hey benji,arn't you at the nats?

I will be spectating, won't be participating.

my dad entered the track day today :D

there were 4 spots left and they would only let you enter if you entered all 3 events but i got my beg on and they gave him an entry today :D:D:D

Since when did 4 spots become available...how much is it for the trackday?

Hi just a random question: How much would a R34 Gtt cost when it was brand new, fun facts from guys cars here at work VQ stateman $45000 new VW BORA $40000 Datsun 1600 $2500 new just some fun facts...

...as you could tell work is not very busy lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...