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Nah nothing's up man

Put go kart together

Hillclimb

New axle and springs in boat trailer so it will make the trip north at Xmas

Fit radio and whatever else I need to boat to make it sea worthy

Xmas parties

Track day for go kart at Wakefield

Fix axle seal in Melisa's car

Fix skyline and service

And want to try and get house painted as well

Just a few things to do

pretty quick!

benji theres a socket you can get that makes that a 2 minute job. a socket with a cut up it so the wire doesnt get tangled

yes used that socket but ABS booster is in the road and the heat shield for the manifold. Had to use a hole heap of extensions and joints lolz.

ended up having to take off my strut brace to screw new one in (I hand screwed it in as didn't want to risk cross-threading).

I will keep an eye on any beers (if its an open invite :) )

My car is off to Nathan @ Newcastle Dyno tomorrow for a tune and boost controller! Not expecting numbers much different than standard but hoping to get a mid range improvement.

Have you got adjustable cam gears? they beef up the midrange quite alot, they did for mine anyways.

Only mods are -7's, xforce dumps (I was told this is helpful when changing turbos), upgraded fuel pump and splitfire coilpacks (prob don't count as a mod).

It doesn't feel as responsive since the turbo changes and I am concerned about running these with standard ECU and boost control. The only reason I have made any changes was due to the possible failure of the ceramic turbos and everything else has kind of flowed on.

It is getting a PFC and Greddy profec-b tomorrow.

After this I plan on keeping it as stock as possible, well for a while at least :)

Edited boost control reference

Edited by djrobertshaw

haha yeah, probably should have explained that.............I know the standard boost solenoid does its job, but keen on running a low boost and hi boost with appropriate tune.

I may have been misled but a few people have said running -7's can see boost spikes with standard ECU and solenoid.............and its a neat excuse for the wife anyways!

The only things i would have added to that list is injectors and cam gears, the cam gears should improve response (only if its tuned properly aswell etc)... with the above you should be able to get 300+ kw at all 4 i would think...

your injectors (if there stok) will probably limit you to around 260ish and stop you from making best use out of the nice turbos you now have :)

hope that helps, although sounds like it may be a little bit late if its going in tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice.

I did consider making more changes but budget and trying to figure out what my plan is means that a couple of small changes now and then probably wait for the inevitable bang before doing more.

On a side note I am looking to change the color of the BBS LM rims, do you guys have an experience with anyone locally? I may just do it myself but if there is someone good then lazyness will prevail.

Nathan does great work

Rims are something you can do yourself but would be better left to the pros

Paint is one thing you get what you pay for and if the finish isn't spot on it will detract from the rest of the car

I can pay t but it is a 1-2 metre finish

That is it looks great till you get that close then you can see the minor blemishes

Is okay for racecar but not my car

Find the best painter you can afford wether it be a panel shop or bike repair/custom shop and get some quotes

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  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
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