Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After much deliberation and toing and froing, I figured with all the cost and trouble involved in modding my R33 gtst (auto) to get 300rwkw reliably,

it would be better to get an R33 GTR halfcut and transmission,convert and sell my rb25det.(then, i can go crazier and shoot for 600hp+ hehe)

R33s are getting slightly older now so I hope to get a halfcut in reasonable condition at a decent price.

Just wanted to get ur opinions on this.

Is it a fairly easy job?

Would I be able to get 4wd ie. make my car a bonafide gtr?

Has anyone done this swap before?

Your help would really be appreciated!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40276-what-the-heck-ill-go-gtr/
Share on other sites

godfather, all skylines are rare in Malaysia but an R33 Gtst would roughly be half the price of a R33 GTR (both with minimal mods and roughly the same condition).

Were talking bout a price difference in the 80k range(about AUD23k).

Cars are exorbitantly priced in Malaysia due to import duties.

Anyway, there was a R33 GTR halfcut for sale at 18k earlier but its gone now. So I figured with a halfcut at that price and selling off my RB25det block, the cost of the transplant wont be that great.

Yet, selling off my gtst for an R32 GTR is another option as I estimate them to be around the low 100k category around here but it might be difficult to find one in good condition.

But if I stumble upon one thats well taken cared off and nice mods I wont hesitate

WTF?Damansara heights huh... is ur skyline in KL or back in aussie? Nice to drive a skyline in Malaysia, a nice change from so many evos or evowannabes:).

Anyway, Id probably stick to my original plan and search for a decent low mileage R33 halfcut, sell off the parts I dont need, work on the engine for big power and then transplant into my R33.

Another thing, is it doable to transplant the 4WD system??

gobiz - yeah it is but as mentioned, labour might be much.. if im not mistaken, theres already one running around KL? white GTST with GTR conversion? im guessing ure a member of Malaysian Skyline forum rite?

i dont drive a Skyline anymore hahah... now moving to 4 doors.. my cuz has an Evo 8 and R34 GTR in KL though :)

Gobiz..

Are you Nain from Yoong's GTR forum?

Anyway, an GTR33 halfcut costs about RM15K-20K right now

Another guy named Peter (his nick on Yoong's forum is GTRFans) just had his R33 GTST converted to GTR, he bought the halfcut from Tony, I think Tony still has a another one.

Another guy Terence (nickname Sabe from Yoong's forum) also had his R33GTST converted to GTR.

You should ring them up.

After much deliberation and toing and froing, I figured with all the cost and trouble involved in modding my R33 gtst (auto) to get 300rwkw reliably,

it would be better to get an R33 GTR halfcut and transmission,convert  and sell my rb25det.(then, i can go crazier and shoot for 600hp+ hehe)

R33s are getting slightly older now so I hope to get a halfcut in reasonable condition at a decent price.

Just wanted to get ur opinions on this.

Is it a fairly easy job?

Would I be able to get 4wd ie. make my car a bonafide gtr?

Has anyone done this swap before?

Your help would really be appreciated!!!!!!

when I was in KL in december I remember seeing 2 skylines, an R34 GTt and an R33 GTR V Spec.

Had a chat to the owner of the VSpec, and pwoaaar prices in malaysia is like huuuge compared to Australia. No wonder all the guys go for protons n hyundais. But yeah labour is cheap cheap lah :D

Thanks Jebu, yes I'm Nain. Good to know that at least 2 R33 conversions been done b4. I'll probly go to the same mechanic as I think both of the cars are making excellent power.

Ive contacted Tony but both engines have gone coz he was selling them 1 year ago.

Now I plan to get 375rwkw or 500rwhp (as I'm going all out) and keeping the car RWD as I've been going thru the old threads and there's basically not much point going through all the trouble for 4WD.

A few more Qs:

1. For the conversion, do I need a whole halfcut or just the engine?

2. My cars an auto but some guys have said to just get an RB25det manual gearbox coz its the same as the GTR, is this true?

3. How much approx. in Malaysia can I get for my RB25det engine-its a series 1 with only 93k on the odometer and in excellent condition?

4. Would the GTR engine internals stand up to 375rwkw or do I have to get forged pistons and other internals?

Thanks

WOW, an internally stock GTR engine can take 375rwkw of punishment, cant wait to get started on the conversion!

Of course, I'll upgrade fuel system, fuel management etc.

I'd like to keep the twin turbo setup (although upgraded turbos) for responsiveness, is it possible to get 375rwkw with twins?

Or do I have to convert to a big single -with more lag?:) - to get that sort of power?

I also plan to install a 100hp wet NOS system when everythings in place hehehhe.... just because..........:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...