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Sorry - 5mm.

You have an adjustment problem. There is about 60mm of travel in the slave. you need to be able to force the piston/pushrod back inside. It should push back in with very minimal effort. If it cannot, your clutch pedal is overadjusted. Get someone to wind the pushrod looser while someone else pushes against the slave pushrod. As soon as the piston can push back inside the slave, leave your adjusment there. If you are still having problems after that, you might have a master cylinder pushrod length issue or if you used the old pushrod on the new master cylinder sometimes the ball section on the pushrod from the factory master is larger than the cup section in the back of the master cylinder piston so the old pushrod holds the piston forward by a mm or so. This is all it takes to block the recovery port in the master and prevent back filling into the cylinder. If you used the old pushrod on the new master, I'd check that before adjusting the pushrod any further.

You have an adjustment problem. There is about 60mm of travel in the slave. you need to be able to force the piston/pushrod back inside. It should push back in with very minimal effort. If it cannot, your clutch pedal is overadjusted. Get someone to wind the pushrod looser while someone else pushes against the slave pushrod. As soon as the piston can push back inside the slave, leave your adjusment there. If you are still having problems after that, you might have a master cylinder pushrod length issue or if you used the old pushrod on the new master cylinder sometimes the ball section on the pushrod from the factory master is larger than the cup section in the back of the master cylinder piston so the old pushrod holds the piston forward by a mm or so. This is all it takes to block the recovery port in the master and prevent back filling into the cylinder. If you used the old pushrod on the new master, I'd check that before adjusting the pushrod any further.

Thanks. I'll give that a shot tomorrow night.

I bought the master cylinder from Kudos Motorsport as per the link (http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-clutch-master-cylinder-genuine-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-384.html)

By pushrod, do you mean the rod inside the master cylinder booster (the adjustable one) or the gold push rod in the picture of the master cylinder in that link?

Thanks

Thanks. I'll give that a shot tomorrow night.

I bought the master cylinder from Kudos Motorsport as per the link (http://www.kudosmoto...dett-p-384.html)

By pushrod, do you mean the rod inside the master cylinder booster (the adjustable one) or the gold push rod in the picture of the master cylinder in that link?

Thanks

Sorry I forgot you had a GTR. Disregard the ball on the pushrod comment - that is for GTST's only. It has the booster which you can't really go wrong with (unless you pulled the booster pin out)

Sorry I forgot you had a GTR. Disregard the ball on the pushrod comment - that is for GTST's only. It has the booster which you can't really go wrong with (unless you pulled the booster pin out)

All good. Booster pin was untouched. Simply replaced the master cylinder with a new one and installed it. Gravity bled the system, then bled by pumping the clutch and then gravity bled again.

Then had the same issue - Adjusted inside the cabin, I will take a photo of how far up it is adjusted tonight.

Edited by ls128

I have noticed that the peddle comes up more after i have been driveing for a bit and the clutch warms up. I should say too that it is fitted with a extreme extra heavy duty button clutch and presure plate and 10lbs chrome molly flywheel.

I will be changing the length of the push rodd to the master cylinder as the one on the slave is fixed length.

Also i have noticed that the stroke length of the peddle is only about 20mm i put this down to the face that it is adjusted incorrectly.

@ LCXU105 - Oh you meant you push the pedal down and it's only hard for 20mm of pedal travel?

I thought you were referring to the slave cylinder which is what we were talking about

If the clutch is bled and adjusted correctly then the only other thing that can cause it to pull the car forward when you start it in gear with the clutch down is if the clutch plate is bent (usually from improper installation by people on the ground hanging the box off the back of the engine for too long)

No m8 you have it wrong. car is not moveing foward at all and i was saying that the slave cyl rod can be pushed in 20mm when not in use and the peddle is hard at the top of the stroke for only 20mm of travel and clutch is fully ingaged. will be adjusting the rod on the master cyl so it is a little further down on the peddle stroke so i know it is not putting presure on the clutch.

No m8 you have it wrong. car is not moveing foward at all and i was saying that the slave cyl rod can be pushed in 20mm when not in use and the peddle is hard at the top of the stroke for only 20mm of travel and clutch is fully ingaged. will be adjusting the rod on the master cyl so it is a little further down on the peddle stroke so i know it is not putting presure on the clutch.

The first two lines were for you.

The second two were for LS128

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