Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone find out who can get our Bose-Clarion PN-2414e unit with this error fixed in Australia or overseas and for how much? Or better yet, has anyone fixed it themselves?

There are a few reasons for this error to appear -

Circuit board problem

Cracked plastic gear

Jammed mechanism

The reasons for my CD ERR FO is the mechanism jamming which occured when I was switching tracks. I took the CD-Changer apart with the help of my father-electrician, but it proved too complex for him to figure out which part is stuck. The mechanism looks intact and not tampered with before - the car had just 40k on clock when bought.

The solutions I am considering -

Buying new unit from the US ($300), but it is missing one of the output at the back - probably for Navigation which I have.

Sending old unit to the US for repair ($150 repaired plus shipping)

Edited by Stayer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/
Share on other sites

You can get them fixed in Aust, but I believe the cost is significant. It would be worthwhile looking at the double DIN facia and an aftermarket head unit.

If you want to keep a factory type unit, you could post it to the US for repair. Or you should be able to pick up a 2nd hand G35 head unit for less than $300. I picked up a bose G35 head unit for US$170. If you decide to go down this route, you have the obvious risk of it not working when it gets here.. If you go new or 2nd hand from USA, make sure you buy like for like (bose with navi with a G35 bose with navi), then it should be a simple swap. And the G35 HUs can play MP3 CDs.

The hard part will be getting your CDs out of the old unit.. I believe it requires major surgery..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426268
Share on other sites

You can get them fixed in Aust, but I believe the cost is significant. It would be worthwhile looking at the double DIN facia and an aftermarket head unit.

If you want to keep a factory type unit, you could post it to the US for repair. Or you should be able to pick up a 2nd hand G35 head unit for less than $300. I picked up a bose G35 head unit for US$170. If you decide to go down this route, you have the obvious risk of it not working when it gets here.. If you go new or 2nd hand from USA, make sure you buy like for like (bose with navi with a G35 bose with navi), then it should be a simple swap. And the G35 HUs can play MP3 CDs.

The hard part will be getting your CDs out of the old unit.. I believe it requires major surgery..

thanks for that! where did you get it from if you don't mind me asking?

also, isn't the G35 unit you bought comes from Series 2 G35? I believe Series 2 (2005) V35s had MP3 player already.

I would be happy to get Series 2 Head-Unit with MP3 function, however, not sure if it would fit Series 1 as Series 1 has climate controls inside it and Series 2 doesn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426415
Share on other sites

That's a good point, you will need to get a S1 deck if you have a S1 V35. I believe the connectors are different between the S1 and S2. Also, as you know, the face panel is different, and you will probably need this from the G35 too.

The S2 V35 doesn't play MP3s.. it does had a MD player, perhaps that is where the confusion has come from? That is the main reason I got the G35 HU, as I wanted MP3 playback. and it was cheaper than the Double DIN setup or the iPod I/F.

I found mine on the G35driver 'for sale' section. They pop up on there every now and then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426502
Share on other sites

I had the same issue when I got my car ages ago. I simply removed the unit and give it a nice kick, then all the CDs came out, but mine had other issues (no sound at all) you might wanna give it a go. Remove the unit and shake it a little bit. or better replace it with a 7" DVD player as I did.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6437465
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

sent 3 of you the link too

to be clear, that's the link to the offer of repair service

however, after I told him that I'm from Australia, he offered me to sent CD-Mechanism for the cost of repair to save me on shipping costs

also, CD ERR F0 may results from different problems (electrical, for example), mine was purely mechanical as CD-Mechanism stuck while I was changing disks on the move

so, talk to the guy about your problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6492626
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I do like how you said "the car had just 40k on clock when bought." .... I haven't seen a V35 go through the Jp auctions with 40k on it since about 2005, yet you can find them all along Parramatta Road and other similar places with these sort of km on them. Truth be told for under $100 a guy can come out and make your odo say whatever you want. Just sayin'.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6727225
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...