Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Front Rotor And Pad Replacement

hazjaz
 Share

Recommended Posts

hazjaz Enthusiast

hazjaz

Posted
Posted

Hi all

I'm soon needing to replace the front rotors and pads on the front of my R34 GTR. Posting this to find out if anyone has any recommendations from user experience or word of mouth. I figured since I have to replace them I may as well upgrade them too, but nothing too crazy. Looking forward to peoples advice.

Cheers

Harry

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

DBA 4000 slotted discs go well with some project mu bspec pads, that's what I'm running..

There are so many options :)

I am running this set up too.

How do they compare to the factory brakes?

I would say just as good, if not better.

I was looking at DBA, if you don't mind me asking, what did they set you back?

Bought a set from a friend who works at Super Cheap Autos for under $500 (Front Set).

At the moment, Just Jap have the Front Set for $539 or try GSL Rally Sport on SAU Traders section.

Also was having a look at Project Mu SCR if anyone has user feedback on those?

I would have went with the 1 Piece Project MU SCR but cause I got the DBA 4000's at a decent price, I went with them instead.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Same, under 500 for the front 2 discs.

At some point I wanted to go to a 2 piece rotor to reduce some weight...=$$$

I see, and are your rotors the new T3 Design?

How is a 2 piece rotor lighter then a 1 piece?

BTW my front brakes are upgraded to the Brembo Calipers from a R32 GTR V-Spec.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

The center hat is not cast iron, and usually made from aluminum. There is a couple of kilo difference between the 1 and 2 piece rotors.

Mine have the different slots on the rotor so there is no lhs and rhs, same part no. for both sides if you know what I mean.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

The center hat is not cast iron, and usually made from aluminum. There is a couple of kilo difference between the 1 and 2 piece rotors.

Ah yeah, make sense, thanks!

Mine have the different slots on the rotor so there is no lhs and rhs, same part no. for both sides if you know what I mean.

If it looks like this:

dba_4000_t3_l.jpg

Then yes, you would have the T3 Design, same as mine.

Yeah, the new design is non directional specific.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

That's the one's!

I will have to change the rears again as I just fitted new rear t3 rotors a few months ago and am about to upgrade to the v spec 2 / N1 rear 322mm setup.

So spend more money again :)

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

Running similar set ups to these guys on my 33gtr:

Project mu scr pro 2piece rotors on the front and the DNA 4000s T3 slot on the rears and project mu Bspec pads

For me this set up is great the pads stop the car great in all conditions (but not really a track pad as I found out hahaha) very very little dust which is great and no noise

The front rotors arnt the cheapest but the quality is absolutely fantastic and work well on the track and street

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

That's the one's!

I will have to change the rears again as I just fitted new rear t3 rotors a few months ago and am about to upgrade to the v spec 2 / N1 rear 322mm setup.

So spend more money again :)

That's a decent rear rotor size.

All for the better :)

Running similar set ups to these guys on my 33gtr:

Project mu scr pro 2piece rotors on the front and the DNA 4000s T3 slot on the rears and project mu Bspec pads

For me this set up is great the pads stop the car great in all conditions (but not really a track pad as I found out hahaha) very very little dust which is great and no noise

The front rotors arnt the cheapest but the quality is absolutely fantastic and work well on the track and street

You might need to go for the Project MU Type HC+ (Hyper Carbon Plus).

Higher Stopping Power / Control / Resistance to Fade.

hazjaz Enthusiast

hazjaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Running similar set ups to these guys on my 33gtr:

Project mu scr pro 2piece rotors on the front and the DNA 4000s T3 slot on the rears and project mu Bspec pads

For me this set up is great the pads stop the car great in all conditions (but not really a track pad as I found out hahaha) very very little dust which is great and no noise

The front rotors arnt the cheapest but the quality is absolutely fantastic and work well on the track and street

Wow, that set up sounds pretty awesome, think the front rotors might be a bit out of my price range though. Have you heard any feedback on the SCR's?

That's a decent rear rotor size.

All for the better :)

You might need to go for the Project MU Type HC+ (Hyper Carbon Plus).

Higher Stopping Power / Control / Resistance to Fade.

You defiantly know your brakes by the sounds of it lol. What would you recommend as a setup?

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

That's a decent rear rotor size.

All for the better :)

You might need to go for the Project MU Type HC+ (Hyper Carbon Plus).

Higher Stopping Power / Control / Resistance to Fade.

For the street the Bspecs are great, for the track i am getting a set of project mu club racers :ph34r:

Wow, that set up sounds pretty awesome, think the front rotors might be a bit out of my price range though. Have you heard any feedback on the SCR's?

Heard good things about the SCRs but i think price wise a little too much, the DBA 4000s are very good for the money

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Wow, that set up sounds pretty awesome, think the front rotors might be a bit out of my price range though. Have you heard any feedback on the SCR's?

If you are on a tight budget, get the Project MU CRD Rotors as they are an entry level, 1 step up from OEM.

Project MU SCR's are the next step up then Project MU SCR Pro then the Project MU SCR GT.

They cost more as they are made with even more refined metals / materials and have different designs.

You defiantly know your brakes by the sounds of it lol. What would you recommend as a setup?

:laugh: I had to research when upgrading to the Brembo calipers.

What do you want to use the car for? Will determine which setup you go for.

No point in buying the highest rating of pads and rotors if you only use for Street Performance as you would probably never use the setup at its full potential.

Meaning you would never heat up the pads and rotors hence it will squeal and the braking will not be as effective.

The reason you brake upgrade is so it can take a higher temperature / heat range so when you push the brake pedal, the car can still stop and the brake setup will still be effective.

(All within reason to what you want to use the car for)

Also (on a side note) with bigger pads and rotors, they have a larger braking surface area along with the ability to operate at a higher temp / heat range = Brake faster for longer.

(All within reason to what you want to use the car for)

So for a Street Performance you'd go (in this instance with Project MU)

B-Spec Pads (Street / Light Track Use) - You can justify paying a bit more for pads as they do not cost that much.

CRD Rotors = 1 Piece / FC Cast Iron / 8 Slots (Street Use)

Or

SCR Rotors = 1 Piece / High Alloy FC Cast Iron / 8 Slots (Street / Track Use)

Or

DBA 4000 T3 = 1 Piece / High Carbon Alloy / T3 Slot Design (Street / Track Use)

That setup should be fine.

For the street the Bspecs are great, for the track i am getting a set of project mu club racers :ph34r:

Yes, true!

Haha! That's crazy! Club Racer Pads = Hardcore racing :laugh:

Heard good things about the SCRs but i think price wise a little too much, the DBA 4000's are very good for the money

Yeah, that's right, I too was interested in SCR's but for the price I looked into DBA 4000's.

I asked around a few people I know using DBA 4000's and they are fine for what they wanted.

Which turned out to what I wanted as well.

hazjaz Enthusiast

hazjaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well the main use is street use, I drive the car almost every day. But don't want brakes to be an issue if I was to take in a track but at the same time want them to work on the street haha.

I've heard good things about project mu so that's why I've mentioned them, not sure what else is out there to compare with

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Well the main use is street use, I drive the car almost every day. But don't want brakes to be an issue if I was to take in a track but at the same time want them to work on the street haha.

I've heard good things about project mu so that's why I've mentioned them, not sure what else is out there to compare with

So for a Street Performance you'd go (in this instance with Project MU)

B-Spec Pads (Street / Light Track Use) - You can justify paying a bit more for pads as they do not cost that much.

CRD Rotors = 1 Piece / FC Cast Iron / 8 Slots (Street Use)

Or

SCR Rotors = 1 Piece / High Alloy FC Cast Iron / 8 Slots (Street / Track Use)

Or

DBA 4000 T3 = 1 Piece / High Carbon Alloy / T3 Slot Design (Street / Track Use)

That setup should be fine.

Also upgrade your brake hoses to metal braided ones along with a Brake Master Cylinder Stopper.

There are other brands but for the price with most of the Project MU parts, which are good, just stick with them.

  • 1 month later...
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Do you gentlemen know if anyone makes a 2 piece rotor for the REAR BNR34 brembos?

I'm trying to lose some weight but all I found are 2 pieces rotors for the FRONT.

Project MU make a 2 piece rear rotor (SCR Pro) but only in the size of:

322 x 22

Which I believe is the R34 GTR N1 rotor size (I think it is also the same as the V-Spec II rear rotors).

  • 3 months later...
hazjaz Enthusiast

hazjaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey all, just a little update..

Ended up with the DBA 4000 series rotors and Ferodo ds2500 pads on the front, will eventually get the same for the back, but really happy with the way its stopping

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...