Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Midori make a similar unit, in several different specs.

See Nengun as they have it on their site, atleast they used to as I bought one!

I've now got my hands on an entirely different 4wd controller that runs it's own G sensor so this could be for sale if anyone is interested.

I've never installed it so don't ask me what it's like.

Retail for 60,000yen rrp for the Do-luck Tarzan unit in Japan and around 1,500~1,800yen to send by EMS to Oz.

The Midori Circuit is 58,000yen rrp and they also have transfer case upgrade.

Midori Street/Standard is 42,000yen rrp.

You pay anymore for these and your getting stitched up.

Very big positive feed back from users in Japan especially those being used for solid track use.

Those poor guys on GTR UK haha

The stupidity on that site sometimes...

There is a thread on this in the Suspension forum as well guys for those who want to do more reading.

With a couple of other competitors, the FULL RACE one looks to be the goods to my mind. I'm going to get one when my car is back together.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before.

Please use the search function in future. It may be found here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years.

If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...