Jump to content
SAU Community

Symptoms Of A Broken Diff?

Manuel Kasko
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Depends which gears i guess.

The old holden v8 diffs must have big gears and room to do it, cos it worked well for ages,

its not suprising cos they are simple and big.

I know squat about LSDs, and he didnt tell me jack yet so.... monday, Dan i guess ill find out what he can do.

What are you talking about GTSBoy, shimming the gears or the clutches?

I like to know which ideas are crap so i dont get burned.

Anyway its definately rooted, sounds worse after an oil change.

I was specifically talking about "shimming" the viscous coupling in the standard VLSD. There are no clutches in a standard VLSD. There is only the viscous coupling. When people talk about "shimming" a VLSD, they are talking about putting in one or more extra of the spacer shims that are just put in there normally to adjust the slop out of the assembly. By jamming another in there they take out all the slop and load the outside of the viscous coupling against the inside of the centre, which has the effect of making it seem like they have tightened up the LSD part of the diff (which they have) but in a totally bodgy way that leads directly to wear and f**kedness.

You can of course (and indeed must) correctly set up the pinion to crownwheel by using the correct thickness crush spacer (or a carefully machined to correct thickness solid replacement for a crush spacer) when you set a diff up from scratch. This would normally be expected to take out all the slop and backlash in the CW&P....that's what it is intended to do. However........I had a good diff guy build my current diff from a number of bits. My original R32 housing, an S15 helical centre and the 4.11CW&P from an R34 VLSD. He set the CW&P spacer up beautifully. Nice solid machined spacer. Mesh is perfect. My diff/driveline makes the same sort of clunking noises you are all complaining about above. My tailshaft doesn't have a lot of slop, and my driveshafts do not have a lot of slop either. I can only assume that the helical centre I have has a lot of loose slop in the mess of gears in the middle, and that is where my noise hides. If I hadn't spent so much money putting what I have together (including swapping to 3x2 bolt driveshafts to match the S15 stub axles), I'd go out and get another one. So, I just live with it. I don't care. I just drive with it in mind and make my shifts and clutch actions appropriately if I don't want to hear it.

Edited by GTSBoy
WMDC35 Experienced

WMDC35

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Shimming tightens the LSD up and is nothing to do with the backlash, the diffs would need to be adjusted to take up the slack, if you dont know what you are doing just take the centre to a diff guru :)

If i was in Canberra i would help but 4hrs is a bit far for a quick look!

He is referring to a mechanical diff centre i would say, a lot of fun but they do clunk and carry on in carparks as they are basically locked anyway....

You should be able to check the diff bushes, subframe, tailshaft, gearbox and engine mounts etc man...... Its hard to picture what is happening from your description though......

this, the shim will only tighten the lsd action in the cheapest way, apart from welding it haha, the metallic ting sort of noise when put in reverse will be backlash which is just from wear, I'd prob just put up with it until diff upgrade time

Edited by WMDC35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...