Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone. Does anyone know for sure if there is a difference between R34 GTT manual & S2 C34 RS4S ECU wiring harnesses? Basically I have an Apexi Multichecker form my R32 days that I want to wire into my Stagea. Heaps of models are listed except for the C34. Any help or leads in the right direction would be appreciated!

I guessed that. What I'd really like to know is, do all the terminals at the plug, power/communicate with the same components (so hypethetically if I run my Stagea RWD only, can I plug an R34 GTT Ecu straight in with no problems) & are the wire colours the same for each wire between the two models??

What are you trying to do?

Given that an R34 PFC runs the Stagea fine barring traction control then there is no reason a GT-t ECU won't run a Stagea either in 2WD or 4WD form it doesn't make any difference.

What does it matter what colour the wires are?

In my original post I said I have a A'pexi Multichecker that I want to install in my Stagea, let me word it abit better. The C34 is not listed in the model list in the instruction manual, HOWEVER, the R34 is. Wiring colour helps, but what is really important is the functions of each pin of the ECU. Does the C34 operate EXACTLY the same as the R34? Just so I don't damage anything when wiring it up, I want to know for sure.

The ecu has the same pins and operates the same. The colours of the wires is anyone's guess but they were built at the same time so odds on the colours are the same.

Is there are reason you want to wire something in when there are other things out there like ecutalk (http://www.ecutalk.com) or just fit a Nistune plus licence and get all the data scanning you need.

Ok cool, thanks. Ecutalk & Nistune are great, Nistune is on the cards in the future, but I still have the multichecker & I want to use it. It gives read outs for speed (180km limiter removed as an option when wiring it in), RPM, AFR, Injector duty, AFM, Timing, Power, Torque, has peak logging for each & alarm for RPM set/shift point & maxed out AFM, injectors & lean AFR's. You can also tell it different wheel sizes, bigger injectors, AFM etc......

Its just a handy thing to have permantly postioned in the car to monitor afew critical signals. My R32 wasn't standard, so it was pretty useful. My Stagea is standard, but I want to get to know how the stock ECU runs so that when it does cop a Nistune I can clearly see the difference & compare them.......

Thanks for your help!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...