Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Heard somewhere that the G37 will only come in around about Dec 12 or Jan 13. Initial launch will be for the FX SUV.

Once the G37 comes in, based on my understanding, we can no longer import cars "manufactured" in Japan after that date (i.e Dec 12). Still gives us a good 3 years worth of imported supply once the 2012 Japanese models become due for their shaken in 2015 and come on the auction market. :D

I'm expecting the value of our cars to increase by anywhere from 20-50%. This is why I'm rebadging mine as an Infiniti. :)

Value won't increase if your car has 200K on the clock, the older it gets the more money you will lose. Unless it's something like a 65 Mustang..

I'm comparing apples with apples mate. Cars do depreciate however when these vehicles come over here and the base value is raise significantly and if the scarcity still exists, then we have the opportunity to make some mooolah! I've taken a look at the forecasts and feasibility of this, should work well...

I'm comparing apples with apples mate. Cars do depreciate however when these vehicles come over here and the base value is raise significantly and if the scarcity still exists, then we have the opportunity to make some mooolah! I've taken a look at the forecasts and feasibility of this, should work well...

I do agree with you though, you would think these cars will appreciate slightly since we won't be able to get them anymore.

Doubt the existing models will appreciate in value much.. if you can still import a 2012 370gt coupe for $40k-$50k in a year or so time, people aren't going to pay $60k-$70k for one locally when they can import their own much cheaper.. with the exception of a few people with more money than brains..

I was talking more about the V35s. Avg value C$20k (to keep it in round numbers). Once the 370GTs are released here for an absolute mint, people would be more accepting to pay towards $25k-$30k for the V35. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that you will definitely experience a 100-200% boost in value - that's just stupid... However, an extra 20-50% - very likely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...