Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just need a bit of help wiring up a turbo timer. It's pre wired for an r33 but I've got an R34 do I'm just gonna cut the plugs off and splice them into my wires. Just wondering if anyone can tell me what the wires need to be hooked up to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405292-arb-turbo-timer-wiring/
Share on other sites

Think its been covered 400 times Disconnect it

Turbo timer is instant ADR defect

Turbo timer is ghey sit in car for 30 seconds and drive it easy before shutoff !! Everyone has time unless your Butt mud is oozing from the brown starfish

Sputterbutt is a bad thing , only exception to a timer lol

Turbo timers are from the days of poor oil / dirty oil and no quality turbos with cooling

Causing premature failures from oil cooking on spindle of the turbo ( or engine bearings )

Well the other slightly unorthodox reason I like turbo timers is that I live in a place that quite often has temps around -5 degrees when I've gotta leave for work, in my old skyline I used to start my car, set the timer for 5 minutes then go and get ready for work just to give my poor car a little pre warm up.

I'm going to one up ya sorry

Where I used to live it was -19c evernight in the winter air temp and -9 during the day , windchill way colder , and 45c in the summer , and 2 km above sealevel at the lowest point , it used to be the old school idea start the car let it sit till its thawed out , it was found its harder on it that way , your better off idle it for 30 seconds or so then drive very conservative and slow speed not leap on highway for the first few k's to let the temps in all the parts come up not just the engine but the drivetrain , it works ,plus you can tell right away if the car is frozen to the ground quicker haha ,

And on hot days on my old car it wouldnt start if you didnt let it idle for 30 seconds before shutoff

The high altitude would boil the fuel in the carb and the engine would vapour lock

And same on fuel injection cars it would boil in the rail and pressurize the lines , you had to open the fuel cap to start it , it would go whoooosh when it did open , made dramaticly worse with Ethanol blend fuels !!!!

So just sell it off mate

Go on hate me haha

Carbon 34, I only do it to De-ice the windscreen really, my 34 seems to be very damp and i get bad condensation. Probably got something to do with it always raining here and i get i've got damp seats and carpet.... Where the Hell were you living for it to be that cold anyway? Ballarats bad enough.

Colorado rocky mountains , denver a mile high 5,280 ft

drives can go over 14,000 ft

it can get so cold mineral oil has to be spooned out of a bottle , but synthetic is fine , that is the quickest selling point to buy it ever lol

Magnetic oil heaters in the oil pan, plug in coolant warmers , cardboard over the radiator so the car can warm up on the highway and and summer is outback hot only cools off at night most of the time , i have photos of my old datto in the drive you cant see it the snow is that deep in the city , the engine compartment solid snow but she started still haha , drifts over rooftops !! Dont miss that haha

Carbon 34, I only do it to De-ice the windscreen really, my 34 seems to be very damp and i get bad condensation. Probably got something to do with it always raining here and i get i've got damp seats and carpet.... Where the Hell were you living for it to be that cold anyway? Ballarats bad enough.

Depending on the year of car they have superdefrost mode , quickway to defog turn on recirculate and airconditioner it dries the air quicksmart or hit the defrost mode on the bottom left , never use mine its crazy mode lol

If your car seems moist maybe your heater core is leaking ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...