Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Fuel Rail Fitting

Hanaldo

By Hanaldo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I posted this topic awhile back in the cosmetic section, no idea why lol, it made sense at the time.

Anyway, I stupidly rounded the internal wrenching plug that blocks the middle return hole on my HKS fuel rail, I just wanted to know if anyone knows what size and thread that plug is so I can replace it? Is it an NPT plug or?

Cheers for any help,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405342-hks-fuel-rail-fitting/
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Can you just take the plug to pirtek or something?

Its just a blanking plug to block the middle port on the fuel rail right or have I misunderstood?

Yeah its the blanking plug he is referring too.... Have you pulled it out yet Martin? Or trying to get a replacement before you do?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can you just take the plug to pirtek or something?

Its just a blanking plug to block the middle port on the fuel rail right or have I misunderstood?

That's the one.

If no one knows exactly what the fitting is then I will attempt to get it out and take it in. It's just that the liquid transfer solutions stores aren't really near me, it's a good 100km round trip to get to any of them. I will be going to Enzed tomorrow to pick up some braided hose and fittings, so thought if someone can tell me what it is then it saves me a trip.

Yeah its the blanking plug he is referring too.... Have you pulled it out yet Martin? Or trying to get a replacement before you do?

I haven't got it out yet because I still haven't found a 6.5mm allen key. It's also impossible to get a full size allen key on it properly with the Plazmaman plenum on. The head is coming off this weekend, so will get it out when everything else is off.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Sweet, let me know how you go with the head removal etc..... IF there is a place on the east coast that has parts etc i am always happy to grab it and post it etc if it helps mate :thumbsup:

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It leaks. When I originally put it in, I only put it in finger tight and without any thread sealant on it (doesn't have an o-ring) as I was just using it to block the hole while everything was apart, had been planning on taking it out again later. Then of course in my excitement when everything was back together, I forgot about it.

For some reason, it was then impossibly tight and I rounded it thinking it must be about to crack loose. It seems to have stopped leaking, but I can't exactly see it while I'm driving and the fuel pressure goes up. I have this thing about fire in my engine bay, so I'd rather get it out, replace it, and put it back in properly.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

better off welding it up then, a fire extinguisher onboard is a good idea. :yes:

Have one :) The plan is to go dual entry in the future so I don't want to weld it. Wouldn't really want to weld it anyway, means getting it anodized again. Not too big a deal but I'm aiming for as quick a turn-around as possible this time, really want the car back on the road.

  • Like 1
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

The actual plug sits recessed into the rail so i am not sure if the o ring would seal it due to the shape of those plugs, however that is on the right track :yes:

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yes, it's similar to that, but internal design, like this:

140.jpg

However I'm not sure on the size or thread. -10 would be way too big, that wouldn't even fit on the rail lol. I suspect it might be -6 as the end fittings were both -6, but then someone told me it isn't an AN or NPT fitting :/

Edited by Hanaldo
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Have you searched for someone selling a rail on the forums? See if they can get pics and measurements to help you out? They are loose in the pack when new so it wouldnt be a big hassle for them really?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have you searched for someone selling a rail on the forums? See if they can get pics and measurements to help you out? They are loose in the pack when new so it wouldnt be a big hassle for them really?

Yehhh I could do, I was just hoping someone had needed to replace one before and remembered exactly what they bought, that way I could be sure it would be correct. Really the best way would just be to pull it out and take it with me, it's just so far to drive :(

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Can you upload a photo of it?

It wont be an AN thread, it'll be either NPT or O ring port.

Most after market fuel rails have O ring ports threaded into them, then you just simply thread in an O ring port to AN size of your choice adapter.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can you upload a photo of it?

It wont be an AN thread, it'll be either NPT or O ring port.

Most after market fuel rails have O ring ports threaded into them, then you just simply thread in an O ring port to AN size of your choice adapter.

I can take a photo of it in the rail? Lol. Looking through the Earls and Speedflow catalogs, there is NPT, AN and Metric threads for these plugs. Just going by the pictures, it looks like it's an NPT plug, it doesn't have an o-ring and the metric plugs aren't internal. So I guess as long as HKS are following what seems to be international standard, then it should be an NPT plug...

what about getting a mobile hydraulics guy to come out?

what about autobarn, would they have any of those rails on the shelf?

Well mine is a genuine HKS, I doubt they have any stock of those. In any case, I believe Autobarn no longer exist in WA, we only have Auto1 here :/ Mobile hydraulics guy is probably a bit too lazy for me haha, if no-one on here knows what the fitting is then I'll just wait until I can get it out and then make the trip again, no big deal.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/images/Pid=1163.html

Judging by the picture, i'm going to say its either a metric or NPT plug. I would say metric though. Probably M14x1.5

Really hard to see though.

Note, that is not an RB fuel rail. But HKS would have made them all very similar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
×
×
  • Create New...