Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Yeah I get this as well, it's annoying when you're in a hurry and when changing gears on the auto (especially to reverse) at high rpms makes the car jerk...

It's not just annoying, it's damaging to your transmission. If it's a cold start, let the engine warm up a little so that the revs drop to around 1000rpm or less. I never engage any gears unless it's completely warmed up - so, well below 1000rpm.

It's not just annoying, it's damaging to your transmission. If it's a cold start, let the engine warm up a little so that the revs drop to around 1000rpm or less. I never engage any gears unless it's completely warmed up - so, well below 1000rpm.

Yeah my engine stays down on cold for about 3-5 mins when it's been sitting outside all night i have a manual so i always drive like a grandma until my engines warm shifting before i need to and minimal acceleration.

It's not as big a deal for a manual since you can ease out the clutch (at the expense of possibly burning it out if the revs are too high). Still, it's much cheaper to replace a clutch than it is to rebuild an auto. It's the autos where we need to worry. Engaging an auto at that rev range is pretty much neutral-bashing it which is never a good thing.

Edited by The Max

It certainly isn't ideal, but I don't think it is all that brutal to the auto, after all, V35 autos aren't failing prematurely.

The engine is reving but it drops fairly quick when you engage drive. So it isn't like holding half throttle and dropping it into drive and chirping the tyres.

I would wait if you have time, but not be too worried about it if you don't. It is probably worse for the engine and transmission mounts.

Yeah I always warm up my car so that at least the temperature is 3 bars above bottom cold and below 700 rpm. Still get a slight click sound and as suspect it's probably the axis click as its a common problem with our cars as mentioned on g35driver.

Yeah I always warm up my car so that at least the temperature is 3 bars above bottom cold and below 700 rpm. Still get a slight click sound and as suspect it's probably the axis click as its a common problem with our cars as mentioned on g35driver.

Yep i get the clicking from the back on acceleration. Also get a little bit of a clunk as i brake, but i do need my rotors machined pretty bad.

On a cold start 1st thing in the morning mine will fire up to 2000 rpm and then drop straight down to 1500 rpm, in gear it will be idling around 1000rpm, the click you guys are taking about is a common thing with V35s just do a search on it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...