Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey mate, why don't you just buy mine. Its an R32 with an RB25DET conversion! Anyway, the engine itself in good nick should only be around $2500-3000 with the loom n ecu. You will save yourself heaps if you do the installation urself with some mechanic mates as the labour is the real killer when it comes to overall cost. The previous owner of my car did this (He was 1st aussie owner of the car) which I had professionally inspected and everything was mechanically sound. Once all in, you will need an engineer's certificate to approve the mods cause you've increased the capacity of the engine, & any other mods, etc. Good luck - Hope this helps.

here's a rough breakdown of my costs for stuff from japan, i've got an RB20DE in my 32 GTS...

RB25DET engine - $1500 from a Series 1 R33 with wiring loom

Power FC + hand Controller + EBC usually goes for $1300 from supplier (i got a secondhand one for $900)

HKS Intercooler - $800

TD06 + manifold + wastegate + AFM - $1500

Shipping it all in a container roughly $400, haven't done it yet, will be leaving on the 20th

Putting it all together... hehe doin it all myself with a few mates.

Although if you're goin for stock gear it should be at least $3000 cheaper.

Mind you these are all AUD and also i pulled a few strings.

Putting in an R33 engine with a stock R33 ECU is a pain in the ass apparently because the sensor readings are all different on an R32.

I;ve got wiring diagrams for both cars so if you want em let me know.

hey yeah funky monkey would i be able to have the R32 and R33 wirring loom, as my mate has converted his car engine but he cant do the wirring loom so he has sent it away to be done and they can not do it either, so he is trying to track them down so he can do it.

He has converted a R32 gts to a R33 gts25 (yeah i know why not a gts25t, well thats because he is south african and we can not understand the shit he does sometimes)

yeah the gear box and dif out of a r32 gts25 will hold and also a gts-t gear box and diff will hold however the gts-t gear wont last as long as the gts25 gear box, then it all depends on how much boost you run and how you treat your baby. gts25 gear is around 2500 and a gts-t is around about 1300 dollars so the other alternative is to run a weaker clutch so if that gives you wont have to fork out as much money on the gear box......... the gear boxes in the gts 25 are the same as the gts25t andyway.....................

I don't plan on running high boost all the time, only when I'm on the track. Other times the car's used as a daily driver so I doubt the gearbox will get a thrashing.

The box will only give if I drive it like a d!ck and race everyone I see at a traffic light. I'm not into that shit anymore so I'm sure the gearbox will last a lil while, might have to change the clutch. I'll replace the parts as they give, coz the resale value of an R32 gearbox is pityful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...