Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've done a forum search but didn't really get a definite answer.

Basically, I've got a 98 R34 GTT with base level mods: Pod filter, exhaust, FMIC and boost increase to 12psi (stock turbo).

I'm still running the stock ECU. Is it necessary to upgrade the ECU for such base level mods to get the best performance, or possible to retune the stock one?

I do not plan to upgrade the car any more.

Much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406414-upgrade-ecu-or-not/
Share on other sites

The definite answer is yes. I guess its running now and RBs generally run quite rich from stock so its probably ok but if you want to be safe stick it on a dyno and get the timing and afrs checked.

But to get optimum performance from what you have you will need some tunability and best bang for buck is Nistune.

as above, yes you will gain power, and a bit of economy too, from a tune. it isn't NEEDED though. and yeah, a nistune is the nest bang for your buck ecu you can get for your mods. pretty much any other ecu with as much tunability (or more) will cost you about twice as much.

Hey all,

I've done a forum search but didn't really get a definite answer.

Basically, I've got a 98 R34 GTT with base level mods: Pod filter, exhaust, FMIC and boost increase to 12psi (stock turbo).

I'm still running the stock ECU. Is it necessary to upgrade the ECU for such base level mods to get the best performance, or possible to retune the stock one?

I do not plan to upgrade the car any more.

Much appreciated.

Did you find much increase in power and response with these mods compared to standard?

Without a tune, the increase will be relatively minimal

that's not true. you will get bigger gains from bolt on mods than from a tune alone. you will gain 10 to 20kw from a tune if you have a turbo back exhaust, fmic and the boost raised to about 12psi. you will gain about 30 to 40kw from the bolt on mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...