Jump to content
SAU Community

Series 2 Neo Rb25Det

arsalan
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Are you for real? If your neo engine is complete you will find a row of injectors along the fuel rail. No carb required. Do you have the turbo and associated piping?

I think he means he has a Nissan Cedric with a carby motor in it, and he wants to swap the 25 Neo in. But he wants to start the engine before he puts it in the car.

OP, it's pretty much exactly the same as starting it in the car. You'll need an engine stand, and just keep in mind that you need to bolt the stand down REALLY well.

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

i think he is saying that he has a cedric with a carby engine in it and wants to convert to neo rb25, he wants to start the engine to see if it works before he installs it in the car. makes sense?

IF that is the case, just hook up your wiring loom to the sensors, throw on a starter motor, and connect the right terminals to the battery.

i dont have a wiring setup on me, but there is bound to be someone on here who has the ecu pinout

arsalan Rookie

arsalan

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry cedric has vg30 carby engine i am gonna swap Neo Rb25det in it but can someone tell me which wires should i power to ECU top make engine start i have fuel pump return lines stand Maf sensor connected to engine i will finish rb swap my other car it came with VQ30DE FR i got JDM VQ30DET for it but i plan later on i should see it because vq30det came in Rhd cars my car is LHD turbo on left side steering box also on left side this is giving headache maybe turbo and steering rod clearance might get stuck and how people think

about VQ30DET in AU

Edited by arsalan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • soviet_merlin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...