Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I put my automobile together with the new turbo (<5000km one) from GCG for R34 GTT and noticed i get smoke from the engine bay. I thought it was leaking from oil drain hose so i removed everything, new gasket, tightened everything but still leaking. On closer inspection i can see oil coming out of the bottom of the exhaust housing! This is basically new turbo what can cause this ?

Could it be that it was sitting for 6months in my cupboard and the seal dried out ?

Or is there too much crankcase pressure ?

Or something more serious ?

Please assist!

Thanks

Hey,

Oil drain hose is clear as is the hole, i removed the hose and the metal pipe bit to replace the gasket, o ring and tighten it as i thought this was the culprit.

It's a off the shelf 3076 kit for R34 GTT specifically so straight bolt on.

Not sure if my oil pressure sender is working right but it goes to <1 on the stock gauge after running it for 10minutes.

I fitted the turbo myself to make sure everything was put on well, i did take the manifold to get the studs removed/installed by workshop but they fuarked one of them up! All oil lines were super tight !

You reckon it could be PVC valve ?

Car smells heaps popcorny, oil isnt blowing out of exhaust, just burning off when it hits the outside of the exhaust housing.

Ok so it has something like an AVO turbine housing on it and you're running a 10-12mm spacer to get comp cover clearance on the standard manifold?

Sounds all normal to me. You might have a dodgy turbo on your hands. It would be very unlikely/uncommon to have a new garret core piss oil out like that but you would need to send it back to have it checked.

Judging by your comment on its km age I assume you bought it second hand? If so, give it back.

Yeah thats right i got the standard mani and the spacer. The guy that sold me the turbo sold me all the kit off his skyline, which has some minor front end damage he was a member of this forum. Won't be able to give it back as i bought it many many months ago.

Say i pull the turbo out, remove the exhaust housing and give it to someone to change seals etc (If thats what needs to be done) how much would that end up costing and would this be repairable ? Ill take some photos when i get the chance to pull it out.

Have you seen something like this before ?

Thanks for your help

Yeah some photos would be great.

No I haven't seen anything like what you are describing but without seeing it, it's very hard to say. Oil has a funny way of coming from one place but looking like it comes from another.

If you take the turbo off and there is oil inside the turbine housing, then there is a problem. It's not as simple as a quick rebuild as usually this will cost you more than just replacing the core altogether. Just make sure it's not something silly like a scored copper washer of a weeping oil feed line right up where it feeds into the turbo.

just wondering, if its a ball bearing core, then it would would/should have a restrictor for the oil flow ??

if that restrictor was not there that might cause excessive oil pressure which could force its way out the seals could it?

Hi Ben, just saw this, Very sorry to hear mate. Here is some pics up of the Turbo prior to fitting.

It's a proper garret spec GT3076r kit from GCG with the .82a/r housing and 4inch surge slotted inlet.

It was bought from a member in June 2011 who had a very minor front ender before it had even done 5000kms, which the insurance company wrote off.

I dont think it's serious mate. Current pics may help these guys diagnose. If you cant sort it Cooma Diesel in Fyshwick are the local Garrett rep.

hey richard hows that turbo going? what power is it putting out?

interesting how the wastegate dump returns so early, guess it would be good for making it look more stock etc.. but does it hurt the performance..

when your buying such a crucial component i would not want to compromise on using stock housings and doing that sort of exhaust outlet,

It looks like the cartridge is covered in oil in that pic with the GCG tag.

It's not an oil feed line weeping or something is it?

Where both those tags are pictured there appears to be additional thread on the line connections. Is that suppose to be like that or should it be screwed in flush? May have been like this from when the Turbo was removed. Ben - whats it like fitted?

Hi Mark the turbo when on the 34GTT made 304kw's with the Nistune. This was done by chequerd/status tunning.

Hi guys! Hey Richard im Anton btw ;)

Thanks for the gear by the way sounds good and no issues except that little oil leak, its really minor doesnt use up any oil but because its on the exhaust housing it burns off instantly and the whole car smells like popcorn!

Ill pull the turbo out sometime this week so i can have a closer look and show some photos, hopefully its just a loose oil connection.

Also anyone know where to get some 50+mm long exhaust manifold studs ? No one seems to have them and mine are too short by a few threads.

Ahhh - sorry Anton. :blush: dont know what I was thinking. Maybe those big guns of yours put me off. :ermm:

Plus had few Bens around buying heaps of gear too.

Specialty Fastners in Fyshwick for the manifold studs. Take one with you.

:) Thanks ill check them out, and put them in myself this time! Took the manifold to an exhaust shop, two shops didnt want to do it, the other did it but didn't tighten one of the studs and it came loose when i tightened the bolt so i got an exhaust leak now!

i would recommend getting all those bolts from the dealer..replace the lot. cant go wrong with original factory stuff

you should also get the manifold faced, pretty common for them to be warped.. save yourself doing everything twice.

The actual manifold studs are brand new i think the owner before me replaced them all, but i cant get the turbo to manifold studs from the dealer because they are too short.

You reckon getting the manifold faced on both ends is a good idea ?

i would definitely be checking it and probably just get it done anyway, when i took mine off it was warped, the heat warps it , even your brakes get warped with alot of hard braking and eventually need machining,

i got those extra long manifold bolts from ERD, but a nuts and bolts shop should have some good ones..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
    • After @Kinkstaah debacle, I'd never want to try and get it right 😛
    • The hood lines up with the fenders. The front bar doesn't perfectly line up with the fenders where the wheel arch is. You have to 'squeeze' the front bar 'in' as it wants to naturally flare out and be longer on the sides. There's a few threads where people notice this when they only swap a GTR style bumper and front bar. Unless you have genuine OEM items - you may be better served getting conversion kits. There are GTT bumpers to fit GTR hoods. There are GTR hoods (non genuine) to fit the GTT bracketry. MAY  
×
×
  • Create New...