Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I prefer 255/35 on a 9.5.

I'm old so stretch doesn't appeal to me but hey if thats the new craze I'm fine with that too but not on my car.

I'm not sure of the effect on the tyre wall, if any

Yeah thats a good size (what I have in RS-R format though so more a 265).

If you go with too much stretch, you end up wearing out your sidewalls pretty quickly.

Cheers guys.

Ain't being a tight arse otherwise I would be driving on cheap shit tyres. I like it, it's the look I was going for and it has a more direct road feel. This is my family daily so I don't need 265/35 RS-R's or equivalent. Also I don't have room to run a wider tyre unless i raise it up due to the poor coilover clearance in the rear because of the cargo area.

Alligators gon' alligate

Wearing them out? What's your reasoning behind this statement?

Talking extreme hellaflush spec... :) When running -5deg camber + say a 225 on a 9.5" rim, you actually wear out the sidewall really quickly as you're rolling on it to an extent. Anyway, It's all g, have it how you want, I prefer fat tyres :)

Talking extreme hellaflush spec... :) When running -5deg camber + say a 225 on a 9.5" rim, you actually wear out the sidewall really quickly as you're rolling on it to an extent. Anyway, It's all g, have it how you want, I prefer fat tyres :)

I thought you ment under normal fitment. There's clips of VIP spec cars with almost 10 deg camber with sparks flying off the rims cos there not enough tread

I know for a fact the Michelin PS3's 235/40 R18 will fit perfectly on a 9.5 inch rim, but that is the only 235 that would fit. It changes from brand to brand and even from style to style inside brands.

And GTRKat is right when it comes to Costco tyres, they are cheap Bridgestones/Michelins in small, and common performance sizes but not in the bigger stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...