Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

new to this forum. i have just bought my first skyline a r32 gtr with 110k on the clock pretty much standard as far as i can tell other than a hks dump pipes back exhaust, pod filters, coil overs and r33 gtr wheels and i want to keep it as standard as possible. i noticed that the timing belt has not been changed so i'm going to change it asap and was thinking about upgrading the water pump while i'm at it.

my question is can i just order an after market water pump to suit a r34 gtr n1 and fit that?

also i plan to do a few track days and was also thinking about upgrading the oil pump as i have heard they are prone to failures on the rb26. is it more on high performance/high rpm rb26's that have oil pump failures?

how hard is it to change the oil pump? does the engine have to be removed from the car or can it be done from the front of the engine while i'm doing the timing belt?

is there anything else i should consider doing before doing any track days?

i don't know much about skylines but i am a diesel fitter so doing the work to the car shouldn't be a problem.

any info would be greatly appreciated.

thanks, lozz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407308-r32-gtr-water-pump-and-oil-pump/
Share on other sites

If the car's primary purpose is as a street car, you are better off sticking with a standard water pump. The N1 water pump appears to be better suited to engines running at high RPM, and it seems does not cool as well as the standard pump when sitting in traffic/ running at low RPM.

As for the oil pump, you might want to read the millions of threads about RB26 oil pumps in the forced induction section. Good luck with that, you can easily spend hours trying to get your head around it all.

thanks for the reply. i will fit a new standard water pump.

i have now spent a fair while reading about oil pumps and i read some where that after 91 they improved the crankshaft where the oil pump sits meaning that i shouldn't have a issue with stripping the gear off the crank? also read that some people just over fill the sump by about 1L to over come the engine running dry on track days.

is that info correct? i have spent hours reading about different pumps and what not. i hope i have got the right info.

thanks, lozz

Hitting the limiter (ignition cut) is what hammers the oil pump drive on the crankshaft into the oil pump, setting a high rev limit (or better yet avoiding the 8000rpm limiter altogher) or a soft limit via a tune where the power dies off after 7000rpm

To go aftermarket hi flow pump youd need the head oil mods to restrict the flow, without doing them i would just upgrade to stronger gears in the std pump if youre really worried about it.

by upgrading the gears in the pump would it then good enough to do the occassion drift practice?

to change the pump gears is that an engine out job? what gears fit in the stabdard pump?

cheers, lozz

Edited by lozz_ti

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376478-reimax-or-jpc-oil-pump-gears/

JPC (Johnson Performance Centre, http://www.jpc.com.au/) or Reimax

I am pretty sure engine out to change the pump, but someone else on here may know otherwise.

by upgrading the gears in the pump would it then good enough to do the occassion drift practice?

to change the pump gears is that an engine out job? what gears fit in the stabdard pump?

cheers, lozz

The standard pump and gears are fine for a ful time drift car, ive got a stock bottom end rb25 in my full time drift car woth 320kw and does 1 or 2 drift events a month for last 2 years and no problems. Thats with alot of limiter smashing lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...