Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been told that these injectors are rated at 550cc and will fit an rb25det.

Is this true?

Cos i can get them real cheap.(but i dont want them if you guys reckon there crap)

What sort of power will 550cc injectors max out at with a good fuel rail and regulator?

If not what sort of injectors are the go.I'm after about 250kw to 265kw at the wheels out of my rb25det.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40737-13b-mazda-rx7-injectors/
Share on other sites

You will struggle to fit RX7 injectors into an RB25, unless you were very good in kindergarden at fitting square blocks into circle cutouts.

I dont think there is a cheap option for injector upgrades on RB25s other then change the fuel rail, or get some 550cc aftermarket one...for an R33 or R34?

for rb25 you just need a top feed fuel rail, top feed injectors and suitable collars to fit into the head. Mate has done it on an SR20 and is in the process of doing it for my RB25 head.

I would be interested in hearing what sort of power figure 550cc's will max out at. Is 500rwhp out of the question ?

The problem with rx7 injectors is there spray pattern (or lack of it). The rotors use a squirt like fuel delivery as opposed to piston cars which require an atomised mist to mix with the O2 properally. We all know how important air/fuel mixture is in a turbo motor and thats why a few tuners up here in brissy will refuse to a tune a piston car with rotor injectors.

hmm being nippon denson, pintle head cap design and identical to a stock rb20 fuel injector how does the spray pattern vary? would it be the duration that they are held open etc. Thats the only thing i can think of for a fuel injector to spray differently if they have the same design.

Unsure about R32's, but an R33 uses side feeds. Therefore 13B-REW (series 6 primaries and 20B's) will fit - apperantly. I've tracked down a couple for my RB30DET, just haven't taken delivery yet so i can't confirm. Here is a page with relevent info. Pretty sure S15 SR20's use the same style injector as an R33. http://www.nissansilvia.co.nz/tech/howtous...0Binjectors.htm

I'm using a sub-zero fuel rail ....

will the 13b injectors do the job for 280kw at the wheels??????

Is that in a rb25det with stock pistons? just that many people upgraded fuel regs with rb25dets got nice ar ratios but alot of them blew the stock pistons, and theres talk of spray pattern being the cause?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...