Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am very curious on peoples opinions on what they consider is fast. my car was put on the dyno last week and was making 222kw at the wheels at 10psi boost. I have standard injectors so I cant go higher than that.

problem is though, the car feels laggy as hell, and seems slower compared to the standard turbo I had previously on it. I am just not impressed. why? :(

anyone happy with 220kw at wheels?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407706-is-220kw-at-the-wheels-powerful/
Share on other sites

Specs and dyno sheet needed!

Ill get on that soon man. but whats your opinion? shouldn't 220kw at the wheels be brutal?

because my car aint brutal unless I boost from 1st gear. anything higher than that takes forever for the damn turbo to kick in. hits hard when it does though, but damn it takes forever. not happy with the performance of the r33 gtst :(

220kw is nothing to get excited about BUT you did say it was at 10psi which is probably not even waking your turbo up, hence your not happy! If you have a bigger turbo thats what happens!

what turbo do you have?

when are you hitting boost by?

is anyone happy with 220 atw? maybe.. its personal preference. get some bigger injectors/pumps/reg and wind the bitch up

high flow garret turbo. hitting boost pretty late man...

edit: ok my tuner just called, he said he wasn't looking to get power out of the turbo until I had run in my new engine. he said it was a conservetive tune, Ill be taking it back to him on monday for him to improve the timing on the ecu or something. apparently thats why its not accelerating hard... :unsure:

Edited by BOOSTBIG

power coming on too late means slow car, eg dyno queen.

If you did fuel injectors, airflowmeter, you could then use more boost and wake it up...

Otherwise maybe the turbo is too big?

I drove an R33 GTS-t years ago and it had high flowed turbo, front mount, injectors, tune, exhaust running 18psi, it was bloody good!!! Felt like 250-270RWKW

power coming on too late means slow car, eg dyno queen.

If you did fuel injectors, airflowmeter, you could then use more boost and wake it up...

Otherwise maybe the turbo is too big?

I drove an R33 GTS-t years ago and it had high flowed turbo, front mount, injectors, tune, exhaust running 18psi, it was bloody good!!! Felt like 250-270RWKW

Yea man, with the amount of mods done to my car you would think it would be pulling hard!

lets see what happens monday. if not ill be selling it and buying a gtr lol

anyone want a fully rebuilt r33 gtst? lol

On the flipside of that Sean i had a high flow on my car making 250kw and it was pretty disappointing, so some good and some bad i guess.

True. The one I drove was right on the limit, as it was knocking on high boost! We are talking like over 8 years ago haha..

A laggy turbo that has a useful powerband of say, 5500RPM through to 7000RPM will feel fast (ramps up onto boost quickly) but will actually be slow compared to a car with a more useful powerband.

Big difference between "feeling fast" and actually "being fast" and it's all in the powerband.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...