Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good day to all.

I'm bought a TEIN type Flex coilovers, but it has a japanese manual and it is a very big problem for me. In my city there are no good workshops who can made such operations on adjusting and installing that coilovers, so I need to do all operations by myself.

My ask to all who ever install such coilovers to ER34 is to share their's experiences. And if somebody has instruction manual in English it helps me much. (tein website has closed the pages with manuals)

And big thanks for everyone in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408017-installing-tein-flex/
Share on other sites

Rears:

1. Remove back seat(2 12mm bolts at the base either side, pull up and out then 2 on either corner below the top half)

2. Remove parcel shelf, pulls up and out.

3. Undo strut top nuts(2 12mm bolts either side under the parcel shelf)

4. Loosen off wheel nuts, jack up car under diff. Lower car onto stands.

5. Crack the lower strut nuts, 17mm. Will most likely require a decent length breaker or a breaker with a length of pipe over the end especially if they've never been removed before.

6. Pull bottom mount off hub(May need a screwdriver etc between hub and shock if it's tight). Shock will then drop down.

7. Install in reverse order.

Fronts

1. Open bonnet, undo strut top nuts, (2x 14mm either side)

2. Loosen wheel nuts, jack car up at front, (I usually use the engine crossmember or if the cars too low the tow hooks under the front bar) Lower onto stands.

3. Crack lower nuts, 17mm again. Will generally require similar force to the rears.

4. Loosen off same as rears.

5. Assemble in reverse order.

Miguelone, big thanks for helping!

Maybe you aslo may knew those measuring heights as usual listed in the manual

Ex. the high from the weel center to the edge of fender (front & rear) and for those A/B/C/D measurment parts? (unfortunately this page from another model)

99509509.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Adjust the preload on the spring so that the coil is just captive on the strut (it SHOULD come like this out of the box).

Bolt them in and see where they sit, if you don't like the height adjust the body of the strut via the cleat on the base of the strut - simple!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...