Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have an auto N/A r33 , series 1

as far as i know the diff is standard

but what ive noticed is it refuses to throw singles?

with the car jacked up i spin a wheel and the other rotates the different way and it feels real tight

its never thrown one single ever , what kind of diff comes standard in these?

not a bad thing im just curious

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408328-r33-na-diffs/
Share on other sites

from memory all N/a cars come stock with no LSD, some factory upgraded ones came with LSD. But dont quote me on that.

so if you jack your car up and turn the right wheel clockwise, the other side turns in the opposite direction???? that means its a standard lsd

if both turn in the same direction, it means its has a LSD

LSD= both wheels lock up under a certain amount of accelerated pressure

Stock= one will light up at a time, unless you are on a pretty even surface and going straight, it can light up both wheels if lucky.

SOME S2 GTST's came equipped with a ALSD's but very few, i dont think any S1 came with it tho

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408328-r33-na-diffs/#findComment-6519798
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Then it'll be a type s, easy way to tell look at the model code if it reads e-ecr it's a type s. if its just ecr it's not.

Mine has a LSD rear end in it from factory although I'm not sure of the Diff ratio in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408328-r33-na-diffs/#findComment-6640901
Share on other sites

Then it'll be a type s, easy way to tell look at the model code if it reads e-ecr it's a type s. if its just ecr it's not.

Mine has a LSD rear end in it from factory although I'm not sure of the Diff ratio in it.

This is incorrect, the extra E is for something else, fast will tell you if it's type s or not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408328-r33-na-diffs/#findComment-6643391
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...