Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunatly circumstances have changed and now i need to sell this car.

This car has had alot of money spent into it.

If anymore info is needed send me a PM or txt.

Note this is a forsale thread not a discussion thread like my previous for sale threads. ( Sick of time wasters )

53605315.jpg

[NSW] 2002 R34 GTR V-SPEC II NUR WHITE

MORE DETAILS AND PHOTO'S TO BE ADDED SOON.

This car is a strictly weekend car for me only rarely driven and i start it up every day.

Engine is very Healthy. Interior condition is very good as well no rips etc

Strictly no Paypal scammers etc don't waste your time.

Serviced with Royal Purple 10-40w at

33,xxxkm

38,xxx km

43,5xx km

49,xxx km

Transmission and brake fluid services done also have receipts car is always looked after.

Never crashed or taken to the track. No Money owing.

ALWAYS kept in a lock up garage.

Brand new battery changed on 7/10/12.

Very Basic MODS :

Blitz NUR Titanium Catback Exhaust

Nismo S-Tune Suspension

Spitfire coilpacks

Kenwood Double Din + Kenwood Amp and speakers

Apexi Aluminum Induction Box.

Greddy Boost Controller

Selling due to getting something more practical.

So i am considering swaps + Cash or other way around for something nice

I have the Export certificate somewhere Will update this bit if i can find it.

Strictly no test drivers due to insurance.

Veichle Inspections welcome IF buyer is a genuine buyer and is willing to leave a deposit.

PLEASE CONTACT

0406 121 282.

If i don't reply simply send me a txt and i will get back to you as i don't always carry my phone and work most of the time.

ASK 72,000 ONO.

Price is nego pending low ballers lol.

64238789.jpg

21079577.jpg

bl2960.jpg

Edited by Longz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408487-2002-r34-gtr-v-spec-ii-nur-white/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Not to be a tool, but I noticed this and didn't say anything when you first posted - but the details are still the same so i'll ask, Are the pics not current? Or is the mod list wrong? I spy an arc induction box! :P (Sorry to clog your thread, I just know when I was chasing a 34VS2 that if I saw an add with an incorrect mod list, I chalked it up to being a fakey - and there were A LOT of them let me tell you, So may be losing your customers)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

you just sold your purple vs1 less than a year ago. now your selling this so quickly after? how have you done 16000km (servicing) if this is purely your weekend car?

doesnt add up, obviously you new how practicle a gtr is in general with your other one (because there far from it)

Situations change and i can go thru as many cars as i please.

Previous owner service records with receipts to prove it.

If you are not a buyer and have questions PM me it otherwise please don't clutter my for sale thread

Thanks

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Did you even read the date of the last post mate? pretty sure its been sold by now, if you got 55k, go buy this.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-2001/SSE-AD-3013907/?gts=SSE-AD-3013907&gtssaleid=SSE-AD-3013907

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...