Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

I did left alot of factors relating to my decision unnoted which I guess set me up for the above responses and in turn admittedly did make me look like somewhat of a d*ck :laugh:

I merely tried stating that all my funds are exhausted at the moment and will be as at this point in time there are other critical things which require my urgent financial attention to attend to so as little as $3000 for a clutch may seem to some of you I can assure you at this very point in time for me it is not

3k is alot- Thats 6 weeks wages for me atm- But in perspective to 80k it really it nothing.

Get your priorites sorted first- if other thigns are that important and you dont have the fudns atm then the answer is black and white

Wait till your back on your feet and have the money to throw around

Buy this.

With cash ( :woot: ).

http://www.carsales.....5&sort=default

Dont insult me, I will take 2 of these.. no wait. 5 !

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/holden-caprice-2007-13297268?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=0&eapi=2&__N=1246+1247+1252+1282+1216&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Price:150000,Max~0.5&sort=Price

In cash ofcouse... :rofl2:

OP opened that can of worms himself.

OP, advice on becoming the next Escobar?

In this country, you gotta make the money first. Then when you get the money, you get the power. Then when you get the power, then you get the women

5367.755776_2D00_lol_5F00_que_5F00_large.jpg

3k is alot- Thats 6 weeks wages for me atm- But in perspective to 80k it really it nothing.

Get your priorites sorted first- if other thigns are that important and you dont have the fudns atm then the answer is black and white

Wait till your back on your feet and have the money to throw around

Cheers bud ! Perhaps the only one in the thread who hasnt given me sh*t and has been constructive haha

As soon as clutch gets sorted be in for thread of video doing a 10.xx second pass on a full weighted, street tyred boat we can an R34 ;)

Edited by nomnomv8

Josh stop posting pictures, you know i can't see them on my work computer and i want to laugh at them but they are little square boxes with a red X in it :(

My bad.

:fakenopic:

Get someone at work to perform some :mage: and see epic pics.

My question is

A) how did you have the motor forged and not know what clutch is in it ?

B) why wasn't the clutch checked/replaced whilst the motor was being forged?

In answer to the op keep it fix it enjoy it ! It will be hard to find a car that you will enjoy as much as a 34R but as with any car if you drive it hard be prepared to pay !

Lol I actually inherited one ! One owner 120k on the clock in old man gold ! With original 14 inch steelies with hub caps still attached . That is a hard car to compete with

My question is

A) how did you have the motor forged and not know what clutch is in it ?

B) why wasn't the clutch checked/replaced whilst the motor was being forged?

In answer to the op keep it fix it enjoy it ! It will be hard to find a car that you will enjoy as much as a 34R but as with any car if you drive it hard be prepared to pay !

Thats a good question.

Basically the reason motor was forged was that the oil pump let go around the same time I had to finalise all my Vegas trip funds last year.

This obv meant motor out job = alot of money. Long story short I cancelled my Vegas holiday, spent a bunch of money at workshop after the motor came out in order to carry out the necessary work (at the same time done other things like sump, camshafts, fuel pump, powerfc as the car was still at the workshop along with a huge a$$ list of other stuff).

Knowing my luck at the time certain financial circumstances were changed and I had no time and money to spare to continually add bits and pieces to the car as I went. I ordered the motor back together ASAP as I just wanted the car on the road and couldn't afford to put any more into it at the time. As a result the clutch was completely over looked however the workshop had stated its a Nismo of some sort which made me sleep abit easier for the time being

Edited by nomnomv8

Need some 12 slotters for it?

Sitting in the rents backyard.

Doing SFA.

Thanks for the offer would have taken you up on it but donated the car to tafe a long time ago. Bit sad as a xr6t motor would have slotted nicely in it !

As for op I know what's done is done but clutch should have been amongst the top of the "to do list" so now you have to fix something you should have already done . Fit nismo twin and enjoy !

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...