Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys going im going single turbo and i will not be needing the following parts anymore:

ID1000cc Injectors: Brand new, still in plastic cover. $900

Comes with:

6x Injectors (Obviously)

6x 11 Fitment Adapters

6x Electrical Connectors

Electrical Pins

Pin Insulators

HPI Dump Pipes: Brand new, still in the box: $800 (Will only fit R32 and R33 GT-R)

Turbosmart FPR 800 (new series E85 compatible): Brand new in the box: $220

Ported Stock Manifolds with Gaskets: $250: Purchased off JD32R

Unknown Japanese front pipe 3.1inch in stainless steel : $350 <- Thats the price i will take once it is off the car.

2.7' Cat-Back exhaust with JUN BL 4' muffler. no cat's or reso: $250 <- Thats the price i will take once it is off the car.

Stock Headlights + Clear Front Blinkers: $200: Only for Vic user's.. yes iam lazy cbf sending it interstate. Atleast im honest.

Will be selling off Greddy Hard Pipe Kit & -5 turbo's when they are off the car so there is no pricing for them atm.

Located in Vic.

Pictures can be found here

http://www.skylinesa...__fromsearch__1

Cheers Sedat.

Edited by Sedat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408601-gt-r-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

$700 for pipe kit. Includes all the piping Z32 AFM's and 2x Drift pods. Pics are in my build thread the items are still on the car they will be taken off when i go single which will be soon.

Edited by Sedat

Need to inspect there condition first once they are out of the car. Depending on how good or bad they are price will varry from 1300 to 1800$, cheers.

Turbosmart FPR is now sold. Injectors are still available the price is ONO (injectors).

Wiling to swap injectors for ID2000's (11mm). Must have everything necessary to bolt up:

6x11 Fitment Adapters

6x Electrical Connectors

Electrical Pins

Pin Insulators

Cheers.

Edited by Sedat
  • 2 weeks later...

All PM's replied to and all items that were not installed are sold.

Injectors still available.

Turbo's, Exhaust and Piping will be removed in 3 weeks.

Alot of people have shown interest on the -5's and Greddy piping. I have put the people in order according to who PM'd me first and showed interest in buying the parts.

Cheers Sedat.

Edited by Sedat
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...