Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well first off HI,

So yeh ive been working on doing the whole diesel auto to petrol manuel rb25det thingy.. every things done now except apprently i missed a wire for the IGN relay , Hence the turning over and not starting buzz its having..

Helps to know the diff between s1 and s2.. once i figered that out mines a r33 s1 engine and loom.. it all became clearer!

so far had put adjustables in, 5 stud conversion, the motor g/box, custom from hubs(for gangsta lock) haha and done the wiring to the point i just needed to get some more time to replace a fuse or two and power up that relay..

This was untill the other nite..

everything was going well, pump was priming car was turning over and i was trying to work out why only one of the two blue relays were clicking on .. so i tried put power to (im guessing the wrong wire) and now both are dead and not clicking on.. and also my ecu isnt turning off . well it kinda is, just the led flicks on and off real fast, and i can hear my fuel pump relay click in time with it.... so i tested all my power wires and as soon as i pulled a fuse out of the Vct/o2 wire(light blue/white) the ecu stops and turns off till i plug it back in.. so if anyone know what im doing wrong please tell me .. wiring is NOT my fav thing to do..

But aside that easy swap.. not sure why ppl are so scared of doing it..

post-98826-0-70423200-1346892306_thumb.jpg

post-98826-0-95035900-1346892309_thumb.jpg

post-98826-0-44466000-1346892311_thumb.jpg

post-98826-0-66921500-1346892313_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408663-my-c33-laurel-rd28-to-rb25det/
Share on other sites

soooo i bought this car for $1300nz, that was with adjustables.RB25det/gbox/ecu and loom a manuel driveshaft and a soo called 5-stud coversion302300_2650718710138_1904480914_n.jpg

At first look it wasnt so bad i knew i had mostly all the parts.. need a clutch kit and a gbox mount,, but noooo i needed SOOOOOO many Nuts and bolts! and spent close to $150 ordering them from nissan japan..

297691_2650736750589_852628199_n.jpg

Anyways.. the motors drop right in on the rd28 engine mounts, but i used rb20 ones not sure why, gbox fit in after jacking the front of the motor up to get the angle right.. drive shaft fit and bolted up BUT seems to be that the engine sit about 40mm to far forward, but still fits nicely!

562456_3576861943140_120227808_n.jpg

Put the FMIC kit on and realized it expects you to have some of the standard piping haha, so just imprivised and welded up a lil corner bend

181277_4135802756311_41124909_n.jpg

soo power stearing/alternator, on the rd28 there on the oppisite sides, wasnt much of a problem, cut back the loom and got the alternator wires on the other side and took the P/S out for now. as that can wait till the next time the engines out for paint.

Before all that the adjustable and 5 stud wnt in, s14 LCA and front knuckle/hubs.. whick were later modified for the lock! rear turned out to be ALL wrong as the had hicus r33 4wd ones which arnt even close to fitting on the lorry, so just used the lorrys carries and bolted the 5-stud to them,, put the 18s on, 265 on the rear and 215 on the front.

391269_2650719270152_1731168683_n.jpg

381967_2749224092711_320788231_n.jpg

Used the origanal tank, cleaned out with meths and gas, put a rb20det fuelpump in after modding the deisel pump carrier to fit haha, then came the wiring

526979_4135800676259_598510513_n.jpg

soo im using the cars starter and alternator loom for now, just bolted up to started , bridged the inhibit/clutch relay in engine fuse back and bam turning over..

wired the fuel pump up , with relay to switch it so it will prime, and then got into wiring the ecu, which is where i am at the mo, cars getting fuel, and its turning over.. just need to get time and get a power from ign to the injector relay power wire.. and will be wiring my 5pin afm to fit this 3pin afm!

ill go into abit more detail on the wiring if people wnt me too, well once its humming

540633_3960954345210_907942800_n.jpg

528510_3960954105204_1969084432_n.jpg

Edited by crosdpc33

Yeh so i've been told! well to be honest i thought it was a green when i first bought it!!!!!!! but yeh imma look into keeping it this colour!

Will have a update this weekend, on how to wire the r33 s1 rb25det (so with VCT working!), most ppl probably know, but gezz there isnt anywhere i could find for a guide.

Also have my back hubs so i can finally put the calipers on!! and bleed the brakes!

IF all goes well ill take it for a test this comming weekend!!!!

sweet, got her started today, just idle is sooooooo high, which may be because its got not intercooler piping or afm hooked up.. so my first deisel to petrol is pretty much done!!!

Keen to help anyone wanting to do this, its NOT as hard as ppl make it out to be!

imma write up a wiring guide etc .. for a S1 R33 rb25det

so stoaked right now haha

will post vid of the quick start.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

right so a quick update, re done alot of lil things, replacing the loom for a loom out of a rb20det r32 and using a chipped rb20de ecu. re-wired the engines starter/alternator loom in now also.. but will hopefully get a vid of it running in the next week.. car is in a shed 400km away from me so i dont get there often!

Ive done the whole AFM inthe intercooler pipe mainly because it saved me a lil $$ with piping and silicone joiners haha, will get pic up later!

ecu.jpg just desolderd the old Eprom and soldered in the socket for this rb25det chip This is tuned for a car with a free flowing exhaust and intake.

Features:

- Allows you to run up to 15 PSI boost (The limit of the factory turbo, NOT the chip!)

- Performance Tuned Fuel and Ignition Curves

- Removal of the Speedcut

- Rev Limiter Raised (7300 rpm)

- Boost cut Removed - BUILT IN FUEL CUT DEFENDER!!!!

Did you manage to get it running on all 6 dude? Going to be starting the job of wireing my rb20det loom into a rb20e laurel very soon.

It would be good to run it up on the dyno since you have got the chipped ecu, then you can try get the boost in the right spot so it doesnt run to rich or lean.

If the limmiter has been set to 7300rpm then thats lower than the factory 7500rpm

i hope it does!!!!!!!!!!, will see next time im up north! no reason it shouldn't fire on all six after testing it all seems like they should all go, so ive put it down to the wiring and maybe ignitor as that was getting SOOOOOOOOO hot it melted my fingers haha so I think I had just wired something wrong, fried two rb25det ecu also, so going this route with the r32 wiring and loom its just easier! and gunna run VCT off a pressure switch as r32 ecu wnt run it.... but yeh deff will go and get it tuned one day as the chips are just base maps really.... least in the end I can say ive done the diesel to petrol conversion haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...