Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been watching this forum quite a while, but only became member since I finally found in love with my 350gt V35 2004. So here is my intro of the baby, any help to my questions down below would be much appreciated. Also any suggestion on mods would be precious to me :)

551209_4328431890476_98586128_n.jpg

313266_4328432010479_1774616636_n.jpg

Here is what she looked like when she's in Japan

557511_4328432650495_132798284_n.jpg487980_4328433130507_78504688_n.jpg182171_4328433490516_280051694_n.jpg

1 week after I got her

599351_4331802294734_1538868441_n.jpg

was much hesitating to choose between Injen or Typhon K&N but finally got the short ram from Injen, sound beautifully, material definitely made of high quality stuff, plug-n-play installation

250728_4561011224814_2018857980_n.jpg285578_4561011944832_491552995_n.jpg404033_4561012504846_1376356324_n.jpg485832_4561014024884_357025116_n.jpg223862_4561030265290_721182667_n.jpg

1 month of possession, and here she is.

I would love to put on new front bumper and/or front lip and rear carbon diffuser but for now, she just recently broke my bank, cant afford nothing really :D, plus next month rego is due :((

time for questions. Please help

1) I'd like to change the HID kit, not too sure if there is an aftermarket HID already or not , but apparently the bulb shoots out 6000k white I believe. Anyhow, anyone can recommend a good brand on D2R HID kit, local or international, i dun really mind. Beside, should I choose 35w or 55w coz I heard 55w is 30% brighter, but it could fry my wiring if wasnt installed properly. I myself like the idea of 8000k 55w, coz its brighter but no blue tint like the 8000k 35w.

2) With bumper material, I know FRP is the same as fiberglass, so really i only have polyurethane or abs (which is extremely rare to find) ?

3) is that right that bulb replacement for rear tailight requires me to unplug the entire light outs of its house ? I attempted but seemed quite hard (I dun have any tool kit :()

4) I will soon change my tyre/wheel set (up until the tyres wear out), so please gimme some sort of suggestions. here is what i like 1995191005E020.jpg

Im a bit confused whether i should go for 18 or 19, Indy from ISMotor racing suggested me to go 18", but i like the PIMP look of 19". also how to choose the offset ? What i want is a normal-looking at the front, and deep dish at the back, like many other RWD street-racer. also does 19" means more petrol consumed and since they are heavier, they'll make the car slower ?

5) Im currently running Potenza at the front and Yokohama S-Sport at the back (that's how i got the car). So im quite worried once i have to change the tyres, its like 400$ for a rubber, that's literally ripping my wallet apart. Well honestly I have nothing to complain about the quality of the rubber im currently running but yea, any where i can get these kinds of wheel for a minimal price ?

6) do performance spark plugs (such as Bosch or NGK) improve the car performance a lot ?

7) Im driving quite normal at most of the times, but fuel consumption is round 14 15 per 100km, is that normal :(...

8) Any other suggestions to improve the look/performance without spending a massive amount of $$ ?

Thank god they got rid of the wing on compliance.

It's hard to "recommend mods" do your own thing, be different and go your own way. Most of the questions you've asked can be answered if you try the search engine on this forum and on google. G35driver.com is also a very good forum with loads of info on our cars.

Those rims, i think are VarrsToen, someone correct me if i'm wrong. You can pick up a set pretty cheap, 19's will look much much better than 18'' and fill the guards a lot better. Tyres are expensive, check out www.theweeldeal.com.au very good priced tyres.

Love the white, welcome to the forums.

EDIT: Injen is awesome, i have an Injen CAI.

Edited by Seano350GT

6). No, performance spark plugs do not increase performance AT ALL.

7). 14 to 15l/100km is very high - most people run from 9-13l/100km depending on highway or city travel. But it will only read l/100km if you have had the English conversion done - if your screen is still in Japanese then it is in km/l - in which case 14-15km/l is VERY good!

here is what i like 1995191005E020.jpg

I think the thing that makes this car look great is the fact that it has been lowered (and the wheels have a good offset filling the guards).

I have just got new rims. One thing I found was that the rims I bought, I liked a lot (Stance 5ive in sliver and black), but they ONLY came in a set offset; they were also more expensive (450-550 each rim in 19"s). On the other hand, I could of gone for cheaper rims (around 250-350 per rim) that would of had a custom offset. I also learnt that 19" rims are a bit of a orphan size as compared to 18's or 20's, so you are more limited in choice and I would guess in tyre choice as well. One thing I am really happy about with my choice is how great they are in regards to break dust. I previously had chrome wheels with a dish, and it was a constant battle with brake dust.

Just for reference, Tempe tyres do 245 35 19' for a little over $200 http://www.tempetyres.com.au/products.php?Falken%20FK452

7). 14 to 15l/100km is very high - most people run from 9-13l/100km depending on highway or city travel. But it will only read l/100km if you have had the English conversion done - if your screen is still in Japanese then it is in km/l - in which case 14-15km/l is VERY good!

I personally have an issue with my fuel guage readings (quite common I have read), so I think my readings are a little bit random. Around the city, I get about 14-15l/100km but on the highway I can get that down to 9 or even in the 8s. Edited by vee35

6). No, performance spark plugs do not increase performance AT ALL.

7). 14 to 15l/100km is very high - most people run from 9-13l/100km depending on highway or city travel. But it will only read l/100km if you have had the English conversion done - if your screen is still in Japanese then it is in km/l - in which case 14-15km/l is VERY good!

+) so what does performance spark plugs do? which area does it improve ?

+) For the record, I filled up full tank, refilled again after doing 150km and it costed me 23l, so yea works out to be about 15l per 100km. I live in Parramatta and travel often to city, so i would call it city driving rite? Im not grounding the pedal very often by the way, this is kinda frustrating, provide I fill V Power 98 all the times Y_Y

Generally speaking performance spark plugs are a higher heat range and are suited to engines utilising a supercharger or turbocharger. They will also be gapped smaller so you don't have spark/ignition issues. As far as I know there is no need/benefit for them on a non-FI car.

Yes that is AWFUL fuel economy. Get your car on a dyno and get them to look at possible causes and your air/fuel ratios. Sadly your O2 sensors might be stuffed, which is a very bad thing since we have 4 of them and they are around $400 EACH. I use my car for work so do a lot of sitting around idling with the a/c on, plus I do almost exclusively city stop/start driving, and I still average 12-13l/100km. And I drove it like I stole it most of the time :)

I went to IS Motorracing to do my 1st car service after purchase, costed me $600 only for fluids, Indy - the owner didnt even lift the car up, nor did he drive it out to test, to tyre pressure check no any other check, so i was quite surprised yet convinced by his statement that my car is absolutely fine. I mean i replaced the air intake which it should thereotically improve the fuel economy (provided by normal driving) yet i still found this kinda fuel consumption is awful :(. if really air sensor is the problem then im screwed :(

If he charged you for that, then you were SERIOUSLY ripped off. A basic service like that should be under $200 and take less than an hour.

No, replacing your air intake does not necessarily improve your fuel consumption at all. In fact if you took the stock air box off and put a pod on, then you have probably decreased performance. All the reading I have done on G35driver.com and sites like that is that unless your pod is fully enclosed from the engine bay with cool air ducted into it from the front of the car, then you are probably sucking very hot engine bay air into the intake, which will result in decreased performance.

the reason I didnt complain was because actually after being serviced, the car was much more responsive, drives smooth and newly installed air intake gave me a roaring factor, which is very exciting. but yea, service took me about 1.5 hours as I watched from A->Z, but absolutely no under car testing, no driving out, no brake check or any other check. the fluids they use was royal purple. I mean they spoke with honesty and didnt seem to be a rip off deal. and he got great reputation all around sydney, none of customer saying bad thing at all . so yea, im so stuffed up :(

and O2 sensor is different with MAF sensor I believe rite ? MAF sensor i quikly ebay check and found few used parts for < $100, or brand new <$200, but O2 sensors, there are 4 it says, 2 at front 2 at rear, and costed near $400 like u said for a set :(...which will once again rip my recovering wallet apart.

another question is that My air con doesnt always reflect the temprature very well, sometimes 24 is warm but sometimes its cool. each time i notice, i tried to lower down but usually they do no reflect changes very quikly, or not at all (for small change, such as 24 down to 23). any thought, nitecrawler :)

If the $600 included the intake, then it is not that bad a deal (depending on what it is).

No idea on the air-con, but could be the lower part of the trim under steering wheel has been removed and put back at some point in the past (to get to the wiring under the steering column), and the air temp sensor pipe that connects to it may not be connected.

ANY question you can possible think of about V35s/G35s has already been asked and answered on www.g35driver.com - I suggest you go do a HEAP of reading in the 2003-2007 G35 section for every possible thing you ever want know about our cars.

http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07-14/

soz for making a misunderstanding, i purchased the intake myself, brought it there and get help installed. Just checked the receipt and it says $200 royall purple engine oil, $132 each for transmission fluids and brake fluids, $60 to install intake and few small stuff. so yea, didnt get a chance to get my car checked thoroughly.

I will come to him soon to see how he responses :)...anyway, thanks so much NightCrawler (^_^)

  • 2 weeks later...

and O2 sensor is different with MAF sensor I believe rite ? MAF sensor i quikly ebay check and found few used parts for < $100, or brand new <$200, but O2 sensors, there are 4 it says, 2 at front 2 at rear, and costed near $400 like u said for a set :(...which will once again rip my recovering wallet apart.

Does the Series1 run A/F sensors for the 2 fronts or just standad O2 sensors? I had to replace an A/F sensor in my S2 a while back and bought it from ConceptZ. for much less than $400.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=7431&Car_Type=NIS350&UID=20120925144953101.163.4.28

The rears should be cheaper as they are just an standard narrow band O2 sensor, and are really just there to confirm the Cats are working, they aren't involved in tuning.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just a small update on my newly added front lip (polyurathen) and carbon fibre grill . painting was really bad on the lip so i decided to repaint it (it didnt pop out much glittering of the metallic pearl white). Yet since i've purchased full kit (pretty much all products in sale line of Meguiar's) and detailed the car (costs me few hours), not a bad idea to share how good these cleaning products were

481078_4690072731271_760727952_n.jpg

536515_4690073291285_1719314569_n.jpg

535989_4690073531291_1476007320_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...