Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Been a while since I've been on here, so howdy to all the new and old faces.

I've got a bit of an issue. After 3 and a half years of owning my V, I got pulled over on the freeway and got slapped with a yellow sticker for having HID lights without the necessary 'protection'. I bought the car from Sydney with these on and upon bringing it to WA it went over the pits in O'Conner and passed registration without any issue. They are 4000k HIDs so brightness wasn't the problem, rather, they are not "self-levelling" nor do they have "washers" and therefore are deemed 'illegal' by virtue of ADR 13 and a few bits of legislation. I won't rant on about the cop's conduct, but let's just say he wasn't a pleasant chap.

I wasn't speeding nor have I had any major prior run-ins with the police. He refused to believe it was factory fitted nor did he believe that it passed pits so I've lodged an official complaint with the department of transport and an 'investigation' is being undertaken by them as I refuse to pay the inspection fee for something which should have been picked up over the pits.

Here's my dilemma, I took off the wheel and the splash-guards, got access to the headlight housing to find that the halogens which I bought won't simply "plug n play" into the existing HID housing (duh! :P) I'll be ringing my mechanic on Monday to see what he can do, however, in the meantime does anyone know or has anyone attempted to convert their HIDs back to stock halogens? (I don't imagine there'll be a lot of people). I've read various articles about hacking away at the wiring loom, by-passing the HID ballast etc but it's all Greek to me so I won't venture up that road. Any suggestions guys? Does anyone know of a place/website where I can get OEM wiring and ballasts to put the halogens back in?

Plan on selling the car over the next couple of months so don't want to spend too much $$$.

Many thanks in advance!

Tarun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409352-converting-hid-to-back-to-halogen/
Share on other sites

You don't need ballasts for halogens. The reason why is because HID lights require a really high voltage to initially excite the HID lamp and then maintain a moderately high voltage to allow the HID lamp to continue to operate from that initial jolt.

Both voltages are far too high for a 12V halogen. Therefore, you have no option but to cut the 12V wires going into the HID ballast and connect them to your halogens. Thereby taking the ballast out of action altogether.

I don't know about retrofitting the halogen bulb in the assembly as I haven't yet converted mine back to the factory HID (as it was converted to halogen for ADR compliance, as it's meant to be).

I agree the ADRs are ridiculous to say the least though. Thankfully mine has the auto-levelling system but no washers so if worse comes to worse, I could always stick on a couple of fake washers if it becomes an issue here in NSW.

If you can track down a compliance workshop in your area, they should be able to tell you how to do it, as they should do it on every V35/36 that comes into the country.

Cheers for the feedback guys.

After posting this I managed to dig out an old box sent by the previous owner which contained the halogen headlight cradles to hold the H1 globe in place (which was a start). After a couple of hours, a crimp tool, some spade connectors and electrical tape, I managed to secure and mount the halogens in. Problem solved...for now.

They look like absolute crap compared to the previous HIDs but just need to clear inspection and back in they go :P

Edited by diabolique

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...