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So the car's now gone and i'm left with a bunch of stuff to get rid of!

Old post is here - http://www.skylinesa...point-cook-vic/

This is what's left - i've got nothing else apart from what's here! I've also got a box full of nuts and bolts of all sorts so if you're looking for that kind of thing, feel free to ask, or make an offer on the lot!

Mirror triangle cover thing - $10

rear wiper motor $20

drum brakes (in bits and pieces) $10 for both

Rotors x 4 $70

Pod filter $10

Centre dome light (without cover) $5

front reading lights $10

stock crossover pipe including BOV $20

HICAS computer bits $30

ac pipes $10

blower fan $20

bonnet lining $10

boot hinges and torsion bars $30

bonnet lining $10

boot rear trim light cover $10

brake booster $20

brake pedal $10

engine mounts x 2 $20

centre console hand brake leather $10

centre console front trim $10

cluster surround $20

door sill trims x 2 $10

driver's side kick panel $10

dump pipe (stock) $10

AC evaporator $10

front pipe (stock) $10

fuel tank blanket $0.25

fuel tank strap $0.25

hicas steering rack $30

interior wiring (includes wiring that goes into the boot) $30

jack stands x 4 (only used once! :) $30

passenger side a pillar trim $10

passenger rear arm rest trim $10

passenger side front fender (has slight bend) $10

passenger side kick panel $10

power steering reservoir minus cap $5

random interior pipes $0.25

rear bar (one scratch, a small ding and a cracked reverse light) $20

rear seat belts $20

rear calipers x 2 $70

roof lining $10

spare wheel cover $10

spare spacesaver wheels x 4 - useful for keeping a shell rolling. 1 is from my skyline, 3 are from falcons (i think?). I used these when i sold my

wheels/tyres up until the car ended up on jack stands. $20 each or $50 the lot

steering column (minus the bottom part of the shaft) $40

tail lights $40 each

under-dash bar thing $10

under steering wheel trim $10

under windscreen cover $10

front wiper motor $20

fuel pump $20

Headlight wiring loom minus front indicator plugs $20

side mirrors $40 each (driver's side has a small crack on the side)

alternator - had battery juice spilt on it from the accident, might still work $10

bonnet seal $0.50

boost sensor $5

boot lid lock and latch $10

boot rubber seal $10

various boot trim clips $5

castor rod arms $20 each

catalytic convertor sensor $10

centre console brackets $1

centre dome light without cover $5

dash dimmer $10

door seal (the hard one, not the soft rubber one) - i think it's the driver's side $10

driver door loom $5

washer bottle loom $5

ignition loom $10

driver side door solonoid $10

flywheel cover $10

front control arms x 2 $40

front windscreen washers $5

hazard/stereo switch $20

ignition/headlight reminder beeper $5

number plate lights $5 (or free with the front bar)

open door sensors $10

outer door handles $20 each

passenger fog light (lens is ok, plastic a little cracked) $10

hicas module $30

stock rear audio amplifier $5

sun visor clips $5

various metal sheild bits $10 the lot

various trims $name your price

wiper amp $5

wiper switch $20

Hover your mouse over the images below - the descriptions are in the filename which will pop up -

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Also note that I work in St Kilda near the St Kilda junction, so if you want to pick up from there instead, that can be arranged from about 9am to 6pm weekdays. I'll post anything (except for the larger, fragile items like the front guard and rear bar) at the buyer's expense.

Front brake discs are 30mm so they're roadworthy, but the rears are only 17mm - apparently that isn't roadworthy. (it's an 18mm minimum so i've heard).

4 x rotors - gone!

passenger side front guard - gone!

crossover pipe + bov - gone!

boot hinges + torsion bars - gone!

boot lid lock and latch - gone!

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
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