Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So here's the run down.

Tuesday when the partner took her car (Daihatsu Charade 1996) out of the driveway i noticed a small puddle of Radiator coolant, I had filled it up 2 days prior and thought it might be from the filling up process or extra that had come through the reservoir.

Come wednesday night, partner drives home and tells me after dinner that the temp gauge on the Charade was on "H", I asked how far, she said the whole way.

I decided to go have a look at to my suprise, there was no coolant left in the radiator. Now to be fair, there was still about <500ml left in there when i dropped the coolant via the drain plug. Because the temp sensor requires coolant to be in there in order to have a reading it wasnt completely empty.

I proceeded to fill up the radiator with water temporarily (11pm at night).

I then moved to the oil, now, the oil was just below the full point when i checked it on Monday. Right now it was sitting below the low point clearly indicating that the engine had overheated and that it began to burn oil.

I proceeded to fill up the engine with oil till the dipstick read Full.

I then attempted to give the car a start to let the oil run and take another reading, and to my dismay the car would crank but not start.

I checked the fuel pump fuse, replaced the battery. With no luck.

When I turn the key, I dont think i can hear the fuel pump engaging. But i will need to double check that since there is a fair few things in the boot that will not allow me to hear it, or it is just inaudible.

I have a to do list tonight:

Check the spark plugs and test it using a jumper lead.

Test the spark plug leads.

Let the spark plugs out and let the engine "air out" to eliminate the possibility of me flooding the engine.

OR

Take all the plugs out and give it a little crank and let the excess fuel, if any, spurt out.

Spray some Starting Fluid into the throttle and give it a start to see if that works. If it does then something to do with the fuel.

Is there anything else someone can please recommend?

Car Specs

1996 Daihatsu Charade G203 (Auto) (EFI)

Bought the car only a month ago so my partner can have a little run around (new license holder)

Previous owner claimed it had been serviced 3 weeks ago, which i highly doubt now. Shouldn't have been lazy and done the service the first day i picked up the car.

Any help would be appreciated guys.

Cheers,

Vik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409716-cranks-but-no-start/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

So here's the run down.

Tuesday when the partner took her car (Daihatsu Charade 1996) out of the driveway i noticed a small puddle of Radiator coolant, I had filled it up 2 days prior and thought it might be from the filling up process or extra that had come through the reservoir.

Come wednesday night, partner drives home and tells me after dinner that the temp gauge on the Charade was on "H", I asked how far, she said the whole way.

I decided to go have a look at to my suprise, there was no coolant left in the radiator. Now to be fair, there was still about <500ml left in there when i dropped the coolant via the drain plug. Because the temp sensor requires coolant to be in there in order to have a reading it wasnt completely empty.

I proceeded to fill up the radiator with water temporarily (11pm at night).

I then moved to the oil, now, the oil was just below the full point when i checked it on Monday. Right now it was sitting below the low point clearly indicating that the engine had overheated and that it began to burn oil.

I proceeded to fill up the engine with oil till the dipstick read Full.

I then attempted to give the car a start to let the oil run and take another reading, and to my dismay the car would crank but not start.

I checked the fuel pump fuse, replaced the battery. With no luck.

When I turn the key, I dont think i can hear the fuel pump engaging. But i will need to double check that since there is a fair few things in the boot that will not allow me to hear it, or it is just inaudible.

I have a to do list tonight:

Check the spark plugs and test it using a jumper lead.

Test the spark plug leads.

Let the spark plugs out and let the engine "air out" to eliminate the possibility of me flooding the engine.

OR

Take all the plugs out and give it a little crank and let the excess fuel, if any, spurt out.

Spray some Starting Fluid into the throttle and give it a start to see if that works. If it does then something to do with the fuel.

Is there anything else someone can please recommend?

Car Specs

1996 Daihatsu Charade G203 (Auto) (EFI)

Bought the car only a month ago so my partner can have a little run around (new license holder)

Previous owner claimed it had been serviced 3 weeks ago, which i highly doubt now. Shouldn't have been lazy and done the service the first day i picked up the car.

Any help would be appreciated guys.

Cheers,

Vik

The normal checks

No spark

No fuel

No air

In this case more then likely a head gasket at the least , those cars are " disposable junk" sorry to be so frank but even new they sucked and dependability was suss lots of lemons

You know the engine cooked , might as well proceed to compression test it , but 99% sure its stuffed low oil and no water is fatal on alloy heads

Not all sensors need water to register if they get hot enough it still pegs the needle without water if its mounted on engine block and not in hose , the boiling vapor can max it out or metal parts

yank the plugs , do you know anyone with bore cam like stupid cheap sells ? Take a look inside the pistons , most likely scored the walls too or glazed the bores badly

Best of luck but my guess its dead if driven a while pegged ?

Last time I blew a heater hose, I ended up warping the head (this was the RB20DET). I reckon your lady's car has done the same. A compression test should confirm - 2 & 3 will be very low compression.

Well dad's coming over on Saturday and we will rip the head off and have a look. In the meantime, checked the sparks and leads all good. Sprayed some starter fluid in the intake and it turned over and started fine.

I have a feeling there might be a problem with the fuel pump because its caused problems before.

Might be just a coincidence.

Certainly hope so :(

Vik.

Does it sound like it still has compression? If its EFI just pull the fuel line off and turn the key to see if the pump primes? (Its a bogan way to do it but it works, just aim the fuel line into a bucket or something lol)

Im pretty sure the Fuel Pump has called it a day.

When i engage and put "the reds" on I can't hear it at all. Im actually gonna' slightly undo the fuel rail bolt and see if anything squirts out.

What's the best way to diagnose a possible warped head ?

Yeah agree if you had a fuel problem before sort that first clogged filter maybe simple ? Bad fuel ?

you may just be lucky as hell and it didn't die ? blown head is easy compression test, leak down or bubbles in coolant oil in coolant or in combustion chamber

Dont rip it down yet if it runs unless you hear horrible noises lol

Hey hows it goin' guys.

Well I got it started on the weekend (ghetto job, bypassed fuel pump using a cannister full of fuel and another fuel pump). It started perfectly fine with no hassles. Engine is fine, no damage to the head (thank god!)

The radiator leak is coming from the Water Pump which requires the engine to be dropped in order to access it. The Fuel Pump is in Tank and will need to be dropped as there is no access point under the seat.

Now, this is going to take over 4 hours to do on the weekend, considering just sending it to a garage, how much do you reckon labor charges would be if i supply the parts?

Cheers

Hey hows it goin' guys.

Well I got it started on the weekend (ghetto job, bypassed fuel pump using a cannister full of fuel and another fuel pump). It started perfectly fine with no hassles. Engine is fine, no damage to the head (thank god!)

The radiator leak is coming from the Water Pump which requires the engine to be dropped in order to access it. The Fuel Pump is in Tank and will need to be dropped as there is no access point under the seat.

Now, this is going to take over 4 hours to do on the weekend, considering just sending it to a garage, how much do you reckon labor charges would be if i supply the parts?

Cheers

More then the cars worth lol sorry

Labour rates vary but most at least 100 hr

front wheel drive is a hassle on repairs lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...