Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone can help me with advice

Got yellowed

Middle of the night on the FWY (doing 95kmh) for tint too dark (WTF!!)

Now after 3 pit inspections and thousands of dollars later I have been asked for an emissions test which I did today

My car has stock turbo and ECU and engine is stock. New exhaust from Kermit (pits didn't like my old one)

The guy at the place I got emission test didn't know if it would pass or not but said it was too rich so possibly not.

So, my question is...does anyone know how to help lean my 33 GTST out other than ECU replacement/upgrade and tune.

As they didn't lift my bonnet I was thinking remove the pod filter. Would that help??

Also any fuel additive anyone could suggest.

I am almost at the point of giving up and parting it out.

No-one would believe my story so far with dealing with the pits. I can't believe it ...am totally over it

Maybe time to surrender in this "war on imports" and go and buy a hyundai excel

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I would probably neck myself after driving an Excel for a month.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409728-the-war-on-importscollateral-damage/
Share on other sites

Would think a decent cat and exhaust should cut out most of the emissions problems. Might be an excuse to get a new ECU and tune it anyway if it's running too rich. Removing the pod filter and putting on the original air box? AFAIK removing all filters is bad (for obvious reasons) and most are barely restrictive anyway so fiddling with it is unlikely to benefit.

however.........restricting air flow might cause the ECU to complain and retard ignition although that might just reduce power output rather than run it leaner???

Would think a decent cat and exhaust should cut out most of the emissions problems. Might be an excuse to get a new ECU and tune it anyway if it's running too rich. Removing the pod filter and putting on the original air box? AFAIK removing all filters is bad (for obvious reasons) and most are barely restrictive anyway so fiddling with it is unlikely to benefit.

however.........restricting air flow might cause the ECU to complain and retard ignition although that might just reduce power output rather than run it leaner???

I would only take the filter off for the test and then refit just after driving out

Just thought it would lean out the AFR but not sure

Maybe turn the CAS back to retard timing just for the test

Does anybody know for sure???

What about fuel additives also???

Is it running stock boost? With just an intake and catback.. you should be able to pass an emissions test. Just make sure you have a decent cat.

And instead of bringing it to the actual pits, lots of people bring them to certified workshops. A mate of mine brought his car he bought from over east to one in Myaree and they even offered to raise his car up for him so he'd pass!

for stealth i would be getting a NISTUNE on the std ecu (you may be able to lean off the mixture slightly) as they MAY check to see if the factory ecu is there or not, using a registered workshop is a very good idea as the guys there would have a more positive attitude towards the car ie they want to help you

Leaning it out doesn't help. Needs to burn a bit rich to remove all the bad gasses. Getting a quality Euro spec cat would be your best bet.

This is half the reason I sold my gtr. I'm sitting in a bf typhoon now. Over 300 hp at the wheels and stock as a rock.

Is it running stock boost? With just an intake and catback.. you should be able to pass an emissions test. Just make sure you have a decent cat.

And instead of bringing it to the actual pits, lots of people bring them to certified workshops. A mate of mine brought his car he bought from over east to one in Myaree and they even offered to raise his car up for him so he'd pass!

yes stock boost

probably too late to take it to a cert w'shop because they are on my case/arse now

will try a new cat if it fails

Mate, may I ask which pits you have been dealing with? I just got a yellow for dark tint and would like to avoid the scumbags who have been giving you grief.

welshpool

dont go there

trust me

Thanks guys for all your inputs

I will try a new cat if it fails

trouble is I have to wait 2-3 weeks to find out as they have put me to the bottom of the queue again

Any more ideas would be welcome

Does anyone think resetting ECU or removing pod filter (ie having no filter on just for the test) would help?

Running rich or lean wont reduce any of the nox in your exhaust (the biggest thing they chase on an emmisions test)

Only thing I know of, that will help, is to get the cat as hot as possible, as quickly as possible. Best way to do this, is to get the cat fitted as close to the turbo as physically possible.

Pretty sure leaning it right out will actually increase some of your emmisions, so be careful with that.

And there is no way any reputable place would do an emissions test wit no air filter. Have you thought about putting the airbox back on, and slipping a K+N panel filetr in there? The arent the best filters on the market, but they def flow a buttload more volume than the std paper ones.

  • 3 weeks later...

Passed the emission test

Got the yellow off!!!!

I was worried for nothing about the emissions

Did take 4 pit inspections and 2 engineers reports tho, so I was pretty negative

Thanks guys for all your inputs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...