Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitted my front lip to my car a few weeks ago and have already managed to get a crack in it. IMG_6251.jpgHad a nasty battle with a speed hump two nights ago, and lost.. and I'm not even on coils.

The crack isn't too bad, but it's very visible.

Just wondering, does anyone have experience with fiber lips? How long can you scrape them round until they decide to give up an snap into two pieces?

IMG_6431_zpsc3b5b3cb.jpg

This is the crack so far; Just wondering, obviously it'll be a weaker part of the lip now.. but is there anyway I can maybe mould it or whatever to make it stronger in a sense?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409754-front-lip-cracked-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

How thick is the lip? You could use a long plate of metal with a few holes in it and use self tapping screws from underneath, and screw it in from both sides of the crack to reinforce it.

That's actually a real good idea, I'll definitely be looking into that. Once I'm back from work, I'll be straight onto it. Thanks for that!

Fix it with black kevlar , it wont break again or scuff off , then fit a thin rubber or teflon bottom to avoid scuffing the lip off all the time

plastic or fiberglass same fix , if its glass you need to fix the crack , plastic - plastic weld it

Fix it with black kevlar , it wont break again or scuff off , then fit a thin rubber or teflon bottom to avoid scuffing the lip off all the time

plastic or fiberglass same fix , if its glass you need to fix the crack , plastic - plastic weld it

Even better, sounds like it'll help more than the other options. Thanks for that, an thanks everyone for your input!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...