Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Saab 900 SE TURBO

Car was valued at dealership a couple of months ago for $5-6k

1996 model

5-speed manual

New clutch

1 owner since new from dealership.

Very good condition.

Top of the range for its model.

Full black leather, heated seats front and rear, drives great!

Price negotiation depends on with or without the aftermarket alpine stereo system.

Currently has new alpine headunit, new alpine amp and new alpine 12 inch sub in box.

Happy to remove to lower cost if desired.

Asking $5000 but open to offers. $3500 ONO!!!

Full list of features:

16" Alloy Wheels Leather Gear Knob 4 Speaker Stereo Leather Seats ABS (Antilock Brakes) Leather Steering Wheel Adjustable Steering Col. - Reach only Power Antenna Air Conditioning Power Door Mirrors - Heated Airbags - Driver & Passenger (Dual) Power Steering Armrest - Rear Centre (Shared) Radio Cassette Body Colour - Bumpers Rear Wiper/Washer CD Player Remote Boot/Hatch Release Cargo Tie Down Hooks/Rings Remote Fuel Lid Release Central Locking Seat - Height Adjustable Driver Cruise Control Seat - Rear Opening for Skis/boot access Cup Holders - 2nd Row Seatback Pockets - 1st Row (Front) seats Door Pockets - 1st row (Front) Seatbelt - Adjustable Height 1st Row Fog Lamps - Front Seatbelt - Pretensioners 1st Row (Front) Fog Lamps - Rear Seatbelts - Lap/Sash for 5 seats Headlamp Washers Seats - 2nd Row Split Fold Heated Seats - 1st Row Seats - Anti-submarining 1st Row (Front) Heated Seats - 2nd Row Seats - Anti-submarining 2nd Row (Rear) Illuminated - Entry/Exit with Fade Spoiler - Rear Illuminated - Key Ignition Barrel/Surround Sunroof - Electric Intermittent Wipers Sunvisor - Illuminated Vanity Mirrors Dual Leather Gear Boot/ Gaiter Tacho

** PM if interested **

post-99081-0-76998000-1348182036_thumb.jpeg

post-99081-0-46932300-1348182041_thumb.jpeg

post-99081-0-05524100-1348182045_thumb.jpeg

post-99081-0-63656500-1348182045_thumb.jpeg

post-99081-0-24083700-1348182046_thumb.jpeg

Edited by KOUKI-MONSTA

Keep it, do this

pic1om.jpg

proffit

gl with sale, i worked for saab for years, good cars, hard to sell, put it on gumtree and on the net and some saab lover will buy it

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...