Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

headlightrelaysetup.png

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

here is a pic of how I imagine a fan wiring diagram would look like please if you can answer the questions in the pic (mind the font style) that'll be great I guess if the answer to question A was no then that'll pretty much answer them all. calculations of the 15amp fuse was done by adding the wattages of both fans in my case 80 watts per fan dividing them by 12 volts, which came out to approx 13amps for both fans joined on one power feed, however if each fan needed it's on power feed and own fuse then it'll be 10 amp fuse for each power source line. Just need someone to confirm that my setup is right, if it is not let me know what I need to change.

Thanks in advance.

Your diagram won't work.

First use 20 amp fuse, power can be split to both relays or you can use 1 relay for both.

Now the part that's wrong is that the temp sensor is grounded(86)but the other side of the relay coil is also grounded(85) so it won't work. Either loop power from 30 and join to 85 or if you want put ignition to 85 so they turn off with ignition

Thanks Mate!

Here is a revised version I have come up with using 1 stock nissan relay from what I gather it is a 30A relay is that suitable for my application? unsure of the formulas needed to calculate correct relay amperage(will do some research) also I plan on running approx 13 gauge wiring for everything (power from fuse to relay, from relay to fan 1 then 2). except the switch wire(coolant temp sensor) which will just be something a little smaller. Looking at the diagram, how I plan to join fan 1 to 2 is this the correct way of doing it or does it not really matter?.

Again cheers for the help.

revisedfanwiring.png

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Yep looks much better. 16ga (4mm2)should be enough for power wires but bigger is ok. Sensor wire can be as small as you want as its only 0.1amps or so.

Actually come to think of it, if it was me I would maybe double up the sensor wire and run it to a switch in the cab which then goes to ground so you can overide and turn on fans manually.

Actually come to think of it, if it was me I would maybe double up the sensor wire and run it to a switch in the cab which then goes to ground so you can overide and turn on fans manually.

bingo.

After a while of running my thermofan setup i did this. I never had a problem with the system failing n using it as a safety measure (tho it is certainly good for that- and needed).

The reason iv found a manual switch good is that you can switch it on if you know that you are about to be sitting in traffic/stop start etc and the temp will of course rise to the point of triggering the fans..

Instead of the temp needing to get up to the trigger point on your thermo switch n then activating (and staying on until it gets the excess heat out of the system), you just turn it on pre-emptively anyway so that things are kept cooler- it is easier to keep temps down than to drag higher temp out of a system.

Also it means that A: she will be nice n cool when the traffic clears n i want to get into som WOT straight away. B: so that when you do clear traffic n go WOT you have switched the thermofan off and as the system is cool it is also below the thermo trigger point so it stays off and you dont have the load of the thermofans running. Which is one of the main points of doing thermofans, not having a permanent and unnecessary load on the motor if it doesnt have to be there which gets you more power and response from the motor to the wheels- FTW

I did a trackday recently (skidpan so single 1-1,5 min laps) and i manually switched on the thermomfans while sitting in line before my lap so i had a nice cooler system n then swtiched off for the lap so no load on for the lap (n was below the thermoswtich temp so didnt come on). Worked really well.

Edited by jjman

The small Bosch relays come in a variant that has 2 outputs, ie 2 x 85 (or maybe its 86). Makes wiring much easier, as the only duplicated wire is that from the relay to the fan(s).

Yeah 30amp Bosch relays have 2 87 terminals. Just make sure the diagram on the side shows them joined together and 87a terminal isn't separate as that is a changeover relay. Pretty sure the 10 digit part number ends in 005

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...