Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know if it's fine to wire up positive wire from battery to alternator directly

I already have done the negative wire although it earth via bracket

is fusable link required as mine was chopped off

my issue is the alternator voltage is almost half volt more than at the battery terminals

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410087-alternator-wiring/
Share on other sites

Yeah it's fine. Ideally a fuse is a good idea and depending on the car you can but alternators almost never fail to the point of shorting out completely. Just double up alternator cable from alt to fuse panel for extra security. Are you sure the volt drop is in pos cable?

While running, Set multimeter to volts. Go neg batt - neg alternator= neg volt drop.

Pos batt- pos alt = pos volt drop.

You can break it up into smaller sections once you know which side your fault is.

I've left standard wiring, then added 0gauge cable from batt in boot-starter then 2gauge cable from alternator-front fuse box connections. All cables are well secured but I've added an isolator switch just incase

Edited by t_revz

thanks, the way i tested it, earth to chassis and +ve probe to battery and then compared it to the alternator +ve lug nut.

ill test it your way this arvo and report back

for the alternator cable to fuse panel, is this the one in the engine, do i simply remove it and the cable running to the fuse box underneath will be visible? is the white wire with the blue strip?

Yeah it's fine. Ideally a fuse is a good idea and depending on the car you can but alternators almost never fail to the point of shorting out completely. Just double up alternator cable from alt to fuse panel for extra security. Are you sure the volt drop is in pos cable?

While running, Set multimeter to volts. Go neg batt - neg alternator= neg volt drop.

Pos batt- pos alt = pos volt drop.

You can break it up into smaller sections once you know which side your fault is.

I've left standard wiring, then added 0gauge cable from batt in boot-starter then 2gauge cable from alternator-front fuse box connections. All cables are well secured but I've added an isolator switch just incase

just did the test

+ve to +ve 0.22

-ve to -ve 0.02

so i gather an issue with the positive wiring.. instead of running +ve from alt to fuse box, if its alt to battery, will there an issue with this?

otherwise i guess strip the loom and replace the cable incase with heat soak it increases resistance

Sounds good.

with direct wire from battery +ve to alternator +ve 're-did the test

+ve to +ve 0.08v

-ve to -ve 0.02v

so definite improvement there, will take the car for a long run and see if voltages drop after a while

thanks for all your help

small update on this,, while it fixed my overall low voltages that i was seeing, i still see around 0.5v drop after driving the car onces its all warmed up..

i suspect its my attessa relay that going off every 30sec or so.. so will disconnect the relay and see if it makes a difference..

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to summon an old thread, but I can't find anywhere that tells me what the wires are on my R32 GTR alternator.
I'm putting the RB26 into a BMW, and I get the positive and ground, but there's a small brown plug with 2 tabs sticking out and I don't know where I'm to connect them. Is one to a light and the other to ignition on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
×
×
  • Create New...