Jump to content
SAU Community

White Smoke On Full Boost - And Average Price Of A Turbo?

hop1308

By hop1308,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I've got a R34 GT-T and i finally floored it to about 7RPM and noticed that a cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust behind me. I've searched around and a lot of people say its either a coolant leak or a turbo on its way out.

My cars running about 10psi. Is there any other signs that i should look for to find out if my turbo is on its way? It seems to hold boost fine and hasn't lost any power.

And because of this im wondering how much a replacement turbo would be, im curious about the price of the cheapest one that will do the job, and approximately how much people charge to install them.

Thanks heaps guys

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

The hardest thing for most people is identifying what colour it REALLY is.

I would take it somewhere to have it checked.

When your engine pings, the smoke it will spit out can look white in the mirror but its not. It could also be spitting a bit if oil out the breather on the cam cover and burning it through the engine. Any if those things are easily fixed if identified.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I've got a R34 GT-T and i finally floored it to about 7RPM and noticed that a cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust behind me. I've searched around and a lot of people say its either a coolant leak or a turbo on its way out.

My cars running about 10psi. Is there any other signs that i should look for to find out if my turbo is on its way? It seems to hold boost fine and hasn't lost any power.

And because of this im wondering how much a replacement turbo would be, im curious about the price of the cheapest one that will do the job, and approximately how much people charge to install them.

Thanks heaps guys

when you say the "cheapest one" are you talking about a stock secondhand turbo or rebuilt turbo or a hi flow or what? as they are all different prices

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i red lined first and second again and no smoke this time. what does this mean? and i really cant get to the turbo without removing parts first, or is it reachable from underneath or something?

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

For piece of mind as Jez mentioned comp and leakdown test.

Nothing worse than worrying - could be something could be nothing but believe me you need to know now.

Longer you leave things the more expensive it gets. Take it to a trustworthy shop/mechanic.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

because hig

well i red lined first and second again and no smoke this time. what does this mean? and i really cant get to the turbo without removing parts first, or is it reachable from underneath or something?

I presume it is smoke from burnt oil. It does sounds like a turbo issue.

At high RPMs there are greater amount of thrust load on bearing collars causing greater amount of shaft movement or gap, allowing greater amount of oil escaping from the rear end seal. Plus in 4th gear it takes longer reaching 7000 rpms which also means more time given. So there is a leak just the amount its leaking and the given time for leakage is not great in lower gears, which you might not be able to notice it while driving.

Check and make sure engine is not over filled, and oil drain is not blocked. Remove the intake pipe and have a feel of the turbo shaft movement.

Strip the turbo is easy. you can get every thing down from the top.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

because hig

I presume it is smoke from burnt oil. It does sounds like a turbo issue.

At high RPMs there are greater amount of thrust load on bearing collars causing greater amount of shaft movement or gap, allowing greater amount of oil escaping from the rear end seal. Plus in 4th gear it takes longer reaching 7000 rpms which also means more time given. So there is a leak just the amount its leaking and the given time for leakage is not great in lower gears, which you might not be able to notice it while driving.

Check and make sure engine is not over filled, and oil drain is not blocked. Remove the intake pipe and have a feel of the turbo shaft movement.

Strip the turbo is easy. you can get every thing down from the top.

You don't think it's more likely the standard breather system is pumping oil out in front of the turbo?

I would say that is more likely than blockages in factory drain hoses

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
×
×
  • Create New...