Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I bought it ages ago - but you can find them around for as cheap as $200 or so 2nd hand (mine is the limited edition black, so was about $100 more when new). But the SAFC Neo with the funky colour screen and better gauges has replaced the SAFCII. They are around $500 brand new.

I fitted it myself (it is only around 5 wires), and Martin Donnon at Willall Racing Tuned it. I gained about 5rwkw and up to 100Nm of torque in places from the tune.

Thanks mate!

On another side note - since I installed the plenum spacer/z tube/rev-up airbox i've noticed my car idles a little low (~550-600), and sometimes when I turn it on (after the engines warmed up) the revs will drop so low that the car will turn off. It always turns on again the second time.

I've gone through all the plenum bolts and tightened them up - and checked around the edge of the plenum and there seems to be no leaks. I've also checked the z-tube and the airbox and everything seems to be nice and tight.

When I was taking everything apart for the install I did accidentally touched the maf sensor thing inside the maf housing, so don't know if this has something to do with it:?

I guess I want to know whether the car acting like that is bad/dangerous for the engine, and whether it's a common problem after these mods? I read somewhere on another forum that the car takes a while to get used to the new mods.

Not sure - but do an ECU reset anyways - might fix the problem. Just disconnect the +ve lead of the battery, pump the brake pedal 10x and you are done.

That ECU reset doesn't work.

What you should be looking at is the manual reset, which is a combination of throttle pedal pumps timed in a certain way. You can also achieve the throttle postion check, and idle re-learn, all of which you should do after those mods. Just search, and you'll find the combination.

Also "resetting" the ecu is just clearing the learned fuel settings, which is all based around the O2 sensor readings.  

The other thing you should check out is the rear face of the throttle body for build up of contamination. This cause the TB to stick and lead to idle issues.

I tried the ecu reset and thing it worked.

However when i tried the trottle body reset i have no idea whether it worked :S it says in the instructions that if the car stalls as soon as you try to turn it on again then it didn't work and thats what happened to me. Any tips on doing throttle body reset?

I think I'm going to try cleaning my maf first to see if that helps - has anyone attempted this before?

The idle issue isn't major right?

edit: I might also clean my throttle body - noticed a bit of black gunk inside it. Are there any good products I can use to clean both the throttle body and MAF?

Edited by itpesaf

annoying, but not major.

When doing the idle reset, the car at normal running temp (hot) should rev up to about 1700rpm, and drop slowly to just above stall, pick back up and normalise. The ECU will read if idle learning has been completed.

You can clean the MAF, its good practice. Use an electrical contact cleaner, or auto shop MAF cleaner. Other general cleaners may be too harsh esp carb cleaner. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks- all hoses plugged back in, the oil filler rubber isn't folded into the plenum (guilty of that :P), and you have evenly tightened down the plenum. Its really doesn't need to be too tight, as it can warp. I use a drill with a 10mm socket, and a little tweak with a socket.

Thanks mate, I reckon i'll clean both the throttle body/maf and then do the reset and hopefully that works.

Oh and i looked around the edge of the plenum and it seems like there are no folds in the gasket, and the rubber around the oil cap isn't caught in the plenum either.

Do a bit of a search on the throttle body cleaning. Read up first. There is a few do's and don'ts.

hope you sort it out.

If no luck, get the error codes flashed/read, and see if there is a different sensor issue (Crank/cam sensors)

Ok found out what the problem was - in my excitement I had forgotten to use the washers for the 6 inner plenum bolts lol.. and because they have those plastic inner plenum spacers I had to remove everything to take the bolts out to put the washers on :S luckily it seems to have worked for now - hopefully the issue has been fixed!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...