Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for the life of me I couldbt find my other thread.

2 weeks ago My car stalled when I parked it. bow this stalling only happens after I have driven for more than a 30 min and everything is well into operating temp.

its is much more frequent now. Ive got my power fc into sensor check and keeping an eye on it.

unfortunately with all the searching i did all i can find is, it could be cas/O2/afm/aac

ive cleaned the afms abd aac. ive also jiggled thw afms to see if there is a problem with the connection. nothing happened or changed the sound of the engine.

I also gave the tps a jiggle. but nothing.

I know my O2 is meant to read between 0-1v fluctuating.

mine read as follow

cold start---> 0v

as soon as i take off---> the fluctuate slightly between 0.4-0.6

cruising ---> around 0.6v

free rev at 2k---> O2 #1 will read a 0v momentarily and go back to 0.5v

Also my car has richened. my mate says its a bit fumey on freeway. he also says boosting produces more vapour than before.

The drives perfectly unless I go to a stand still. And its not everytime. only when it feels like it.

throtlle saves it from stalling but only if you keep it at 2k+ as soon as you let it go it will stall. (this is when its acting up)

other times it will idle fine.

its intermittent so this is leading me to electrical.

also once the car stalls, i can start it up straight away with no problem.

Does this sound like cas/O2 or my stupid mafs?

thank you and sorry for the speel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410445-stalling-at-a-stop/
Share on other sites

lets expand the symptoms and ill keep this up with what i do and what happens haha.

twice today, i experienced a flat spot while just cruising. not underload. just drive at 60 and feels like loss of power O2 sensors read 00v then. and then boom back in as if nothing happened.

sweet. im lovin this.

Fuel filter is on the list. about 15,000 old.

i can certainly try and get my hands on a wideband. Havent checked the timing around the idle.

Just to add another sympton. it stalled while slowing down for a turn. approximately doing 20. it is definitely getting worse. so need to enter super diagnostic mode and get this shit sorted.

Drove today without the o2. sensors. car didnt stall once

drove on the freeway and parked without the idle being affected. car idled beautifully every time.

I did however still have that hesitation/loss of power every 10-15 minutes. that i thibk i will blame on my afms. sometimes it happebed on a bump sometimes under load ie up a hill.

so plan of action is to replace o2's and open my afms and have a look. if resoldering doent fix it then i am 1000000000000000% going link

did you come to any conclusions with this mate?

i have a rb20 32 thats doing something similar to this and i cannot for the life of me figure it out :(

it idles lower than usual (between 500-800 when its usually around 1000-1200) and when i come to an intersection or break to pull into driveway, street etc.. it wants to stall.

iv just been flicking it into neutral and using the handbrake to slow me at the last 5m so i can still play with accelerator pedal and keep revs higher to prevent the stall but im gettin sick of doing so lol..

And on a probably different situation, my battery light comes on when im on highway and go back to third to clean cobwebs out.. (only to the speed limit of course) and stays on for a while then goes off or just stays on entire time till i switch car off, but have never had a flat when i go to start it, any suggestions/answers guys?

Well, yours might be the battery terminals. Check em, make sure they arent loose.

Mine on the other hand,

I disconnected the o2's while driving and the car didnt stall once.

So I did a few things, resoldered the afms, coz the car was intermittently loosing power.

And I ordered new o2 sensors. I would have had them today but kudos f**ked up and didnt sign the declaration for express post so it defaulted to snail mail. Great, thanks guys.

So my conclusion will only be met next week. And if nothing has been solved then its back to the drawing board.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...