Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Almost stalling (All lights on) problem

Giovanni

By Giovanni,
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

 Share

Recommended Posts

Giovanni Newbie

Giovanni

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone, after being in this forum for ages and reading everything I could to get the best information and tips for my '03 v35 coupe, I finally decided to sign up to this nice and helpful community. I hope I can find some good advice for my problem 😁

In the past year I've been having a weird issue, my car (only at idle) has a little hiccups/shake every now and then and occasionally (just before nearly stalling) all the famous lights from the dashboard pops up. The car almost shut down (the radio turns off) but straight after it continue to idle.

So far in the last year I've replaced (all oem):

- Both upstream and downstream o2 sensor

- Ignition coils and sparkplugs (2 years for the coils and less than 1 year for the ngk sparkplugs)

- Both camshafts, Crankshaft, Knock sensor

- Pcv lines all around 

- Maf sensor

- Rocker cover and gaskets

- Cleaned the throttle body properly

- Aftermarket exhaust with high flow cats from kinetix

- All injectors

Apart from all of this I do change oil and oil filter every 5k and air filter regularly. 

I did a smoke test to be sure that there was no vaccum leaks all around, I honestly don't know where to look or what could be! Thanks in advance for your help, and sorry if is not the right way to post but I'm pretty new on this things 😅

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Giovanni Newbie

Giovanni

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, I did the relearning as per method but didn't fix the issue. Usually is idling at the rights rpm (around 700) but the hiccups and shake are constantly present. The stalling is not happening frequently, probably less than 5 or 6 times in an year but surely is something

Link to comment
Share on other sites
sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

What method did you use to do the idle air volume learn?  The 'pedal dance' method is notoriously difficult to get right.  When you get it you should see the idle RPM drop down low, then go high (sometimes twice), before settling down at about 650rpm.

Otherwise, did you replace the PCV itself?  I can see you did the hoses but what about the actual valve?  assuming the valve covers didn't come with it?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • WMDC35
      Superlative Сasual Dating - Authentic Ladies

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Superlative Сasual Dating - Authentic Ladies

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • joshuaho96
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...